2 Days in Fes

Start at Fes's most famous landmark — the ornate blue-tiled gate that marks the entrance to Fes el-Bali. Blue on the outside (the colour of Fes), green on the inside (the colour of Islam). The Koutoubia-style minarets frame the view perfectly.

• Morning light on the blue tiles is best for photos
• The gate faces east — arrive early for front-lit shots

Just inside Bab Boujloud, this 14th-century madrasa is the most ornate building in Fes. Every surface is carved, tiled, or painted — zellij floors, stucco walls, cedar ceilings, and an intricate water clock. It is the only madrasa in Morocco with its own minaret.

• The carved stucco is the finest in Morocco — look for the calligraphy bands
• Open to non-Muslims, unlike most Fes mosques

Walk downhill along Talaa Kebira — the main artery of Fes el-Bali. This steep, narrow lane plunges deep into the medina past food vendors, spice shops, and artisan workshops. The sensory overload builds with every step: donkey traffic, the smell of leather, and the sound of copper hammers.

• Stay on Talaa Kebira — it leads directly to the medina core
• Food stalls sell sfenj (Moroccan doughnuts) for 1 MAD each

The iconic Chouara tannery — stone vats filled with dye in every colour, leather draped on rooftops, and men working in the pits using methods unchanged since medieval times. View from the leather shop terraces above (they expect you to browse their goods; buying is not required but browsing is the entry fee).

• Take the mint sprig they offer at the door — the smell is intense
• Terrace viewing is free but tip 10–20 MAD
• The dye colours are most vivid in the morning

A smaller but equally exquisite 14th-century madrasa near the Karaouine Mosque. The courtyard is intimate and perfectly proportioned — carved marble fountain, zellij walls, and cedar wood balconies. Less crowded than Bou Inania.

• The student cells upstairs give views over the Karaouine rooftop
• Combine with the adjacent spice souk

The world's oldest continuously operating university (founded 859 AD) and one of the largest mosques in Africa. Non-Muslims cannot enter, but you can glimpse the vast prayer hall through the open doors — a forest of horseshoe arches and an immense chandelier.

• Peer through the main doors for the best interior view
• Founded by Fatima al-Fihri — a woman, in the 9th century

The Fes souks are organised by craft: leather (Souk Debbaghine), metalwork (Place Seffarine), carpets, pottery, and textiles. The Fes medina has the best artisan tradition in Morocco — what you buy here was likely made within a few hundred metres.

• Place Seffarine (coppersmiths) is the most atmospheric souk — hammers ring all day
• Fassi blue ceramics make distinctive souvenirs (50–200 MAD)
• Negotiate firmly but cheerfully

The Ruined Garden for creative Moroccan food in a romantic courtyard of a collapsed riad. Café Clock for cultural programming and camel burger. For traditional, Dar Roumana serves exquisite Fassi cuisine. Budget: stalls near Bab Boujloud for brochettes and harira (20–40 MAD).

• The Ruined Garden — reserve ahead, the courtyard is magical (100–150 MAD)
• Café Clock — camel burger is the signature, live music evenings (60–100 MAD)

A beautifully restored 18th-century fondouk (caravanserai) now housing a museum of traditional woodworking. The building itself — with its carved cedar doors, galleries, and central courtyard — is as impressive as the collection. The rooftop cafe has medina views.

• The fondouk architecture is the star — three levels of carved galleries
• Rooftop cafe is a peaceful escape from the medina buzz

Return to your riad for tea and rest. The Fes medina is intense — even experienced travellers need downtime. Most riads serve afternoon tea in the courtyard, and many have plunge pools or rooftop terraces.

• Ask your riad to arrange a hammam visit for tomorrow
• Riad rooftop sunset views over the medina are spectacular

Taxi to the Merinid Tombs on the hillside above Fes el-Bali. The 14th-century ruins frame the most famous view in Fes — the entire medina spread below, minarets rising from a sea of whitewashed buildings, with the Middle Atlas Mountains behind. At sunset, the light is golden and the call to prayer echoes across the valley.

• Arrive 45 min before sunset for the best light
• Bring a warm layer — the hilltop is breezy
• The walk back down to the medina takes 20 min