8 Best Shopping Spots in Fes
Morocco's craft capital — tanneries, blue ceramics, hammered brass, and the world's oldest continuously operating market.
Shopping Essentials
Chouara Tanneries & Leather Quarter
Leather WorkshopThe world's oldest leather tanneries — a medieval industrial complex where hides have been processed using the same techniques since the 11th century. The Chouara tanneries are Fes's most iconic sight and the origin of some of Morocco's finest leather. From the terraces of surrounding leather shops (free access, mint sprig provided against the smell), you look down onto a honeycomb of stone vats filled with colored dyes — white (lime for hair removal), brown (tanbark for tanning), and vivid reds, yellows, blues, and greens (natural and synthetic dyes). Workers stand waist-deep in the vats, trampling hides by foot. The process takes weeks from raw hide to finished leather. The surrounding shops sell the finished products: bags (200–1,500 MAD), jackets (500–3,000 MAD), babouches (80–200 MAD), belts (80–300 MAD), poufs (300–800 MAD unstuffed), and wallets (60–200 MAD). Fes leather is considered superior to Marrakech leather — softer, better finished, and available in more colors. Quality check: genuine leather smells of hide, not chemicals; the dye should be even; stitching should be tight. The terrace viewing is free but shop owners expect you to browse — a purchase is not required but appreciated. Best visited mid-morning when workers are active and the dye vats are freshest.
Souk Attarine (Spice & Perfume Souk)
Spices & FragranceThe fragrant heart of the Fes medina — a covered souk near the Attarine Medersa filled with apothecary shops selling spices, perfumes, kohl, henna, and traditional remedies. Souk Attarine takes its name from the word "attar" (perfumer/herbalist) and has been the aromatic center of Fes for centuries. The displays are theatrical: pyramids of ground spices, baskets of dried rose petals, bottles of amber perfume oil, and mysterious roots and barks. Fes ras el hanout is considered Morocco's finest — the blends here incorporate up to 35 ingredients (vs. 15–20 in Marrakech blends). Price: 100–180 MAD per kilo for quality blends. Saffron from the Taliouine region is sold by reputable dealers (20–35 MAD per gram — ask for "Taliouine" by name). The perfume shops blend custom fragrances: choose from essential oils (rose, orange blossom, jasmine, sandalwood, musk, amber) and the perfumer blends on the spot (50–200 MAD per bottle). Traditional cosmetics: ghassoul clay from the Middle Atlas (30–50 MAD), black soap beldi (40–60 MAD), rose water (30–80 MAD), and argan oil (150–250 MAD for 250ml). The souk is adjacent to the Attarine Medersa (entry 20 MAD) — one of the finest examples of Marinid architecture, with carved stucco and zellige that put the craftsmanship in context.
Place Seffarine (Brass & Copper Square)
MetalworkThe metalworkers' square — a small triangular plaza where brass and copper artisans have hammered, engraved, and soldered for over a thousand years. Place Seffarine is one of the oldest continuously operating craft squares in the world, and the sound of hammering fills the air from dawn to dusk. The workshops line the square: each family specializes in specific products — teapots, trays, lanterns, doors, or decorative panels. The work is done by hand: sheets of brass or copper are hammered into shape, engraved with geometric patterns using chisels, and polished to a mirror finish. A hand-hammered Moroccan teapot (berrad) costs 150–500 MAD depending on size and decoration — it's the same product that sells for 300–1,000 MAD in Marrakech tourist shops. Copper trays (siniya) range from simple serving trays (100–300 MAD) to elaborately engraved wall-hanging pieces (500–2,000 MAD). Brass lanterns: 200–800 MAD. The craftsmen are generally friendly and proud of their work — they'll demonstrate techniques and explain the difference between brass (yellow), copper (red-orange), and bronze (darker). The square also has the Seffarine Medersa — a theological college currently being restored. Best visited mid-morning when all workshops are active. Prices are negotiable but less inflated than in the tourist souks.
Fes Ceramics Quarter (Ain Nokbi)
Ceramics WorkshopThe birthplace of Morocco's iconic blue-and-white ceramics — a neighborhood of pottery workshops on the outskirts of the medina where Fes's famous "Bleu de Fès" has been produced for centuries. The Ain Nokbi ceramics quarter (accessible by taxi from the ville nouvelle, 15 MAD) is a cluster of cooperatives and family workshops where you can watch the entire process: clay preparation, wheel-throwing, painting (the characteristic cobalt blue geometric patterns are applied freehand), glazing, and kiln-firing. The largest cooperative, Art Naji, offers free guided tours through their multi-level workshop — you see every stage from raw clay to finished product. The painting is extraordinary: master painters apply intricate geometric patterns entirely freehand, using brushes made from donkey hair. A single large plate can take 8 hours to paint. Products: plates (20–200 MAD depending on size and complexity), tagines (50–300 MAD), bowls (30–150 MAD), vases (100–500 MAD), tiles (10–50 MAD each), and fountain basins (500–2,000 MAD). Zellige tiles (geometric mosaic tiles chipped by hand from solid ceramic squares) are a specialty — watching zellige masters chip perfect geometric shapes at incredible speed is mesmerizing. Shipping: all workshops arrange worldwide shipping (reliable, insured, 500–2,000 MAD depending on weight and destination). Buy here for the widest selection, lowest prices, and the knowledge that you're supporting the artisans directly.
Nejjarine Square (Woodcraft Museum Area)
Woodcraft & DesignThe woodworkers' quarter — centered on the beautiful Nejjarine fondouk (caravanserai, now a museum) and surrounded by workshops producing carved cedarwood, thuya wood, and painted furniture. The Nejjarine Museum of Wood Arts and Crafts (entry 20 MAD) occupies a restored 18th-century caravanserai — three floors of carved doors, inlaid screens, musical instruments, and domestic woodcraft arranged around a central courtyard. The rooftop terrace has one of the best views in the medina. The surrounding workshops sell: carved cedar boxes (30–200 MAD), inlaid chess sets (100–500 MAD), thuya wood bowls and trays (50–300 MAD — thuya is an aromatic wood unique to Morocco), carved screens and mirror frames (200–2,000 MAD), and traditional musical instruments (oud, bendir, guembri — 200–3,000 MAD). Cedar has a distinctive warm fragrance — genuine cedar pieces will smell for years. Thuya wood has a rich, swirling grain and a subtler scent. The inlay work (marquetry) combines different colored woods with mother-of-pearl or camel bone to create geometric patterns. The craftsmen work with hand tools in small workshops — watching them carve is part of the experience. Quality varies — check that joints are tight, surfaces are smooth, and inlay is level with the surrounding wood. The quarter is quiet compared to the main souks — browse in relative peace.
Embroidery & Textile Souks
Textiles & FashionFes is Morocco's embroidery capital — the city has its own distinctive needlework tradition (fassi embroidery) that produces some of the country's most intricate and valuable textiles. The textile souks along Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira sell everything from everyday djellabas to elaborately embroidered wedding kaftans. Fassi embroidery is characterized by dense, reversible needlework in a single color (traditionally blue, red, or white) on linen or cotton — the designs are geometric and the work is so fine that both sides of the fabric look identical. A hand-embroidered tablecloth takes weeks to complete and costs 500–3,000 MAD depending on size and density. Kaftans: simple cotton kaftans (200–500 MAD), embroidered silk kaftans (1,000–5,000 MAD), wedding kaftans with beading (5,000–50,000 MAD). Djellabas: lightweight summer versions (200–400 MAD), wool winter versions (400–1,000 MAD), hand-embroidered ceremonial versions (1,000–3,000 MAD). The textile cooperative on Derb el-Magana specializes in embroidery and allows visitors to watch women working. Look also for Fes silk (harir fassi) — a lightweight, lustrous fabric used for scarves and linings. Bargaining is expected but the high-end embroidered pieces hold their value — don't expect more than 20–30% off for genuine handwork.
Fondouk Shops (Restored Caravanserais)
Curated CraftFes's restored fondouks (historic caravanserais) have become some of the most atmospheric shopping spaces in Morocco — multi-story courtyard buildings where artisan workshops and curated shops occupy the former merchants' cells. The fondouk model (ground floor for animals, upper floors for merchants and goods) dates back to the medieval caravan trade. Several have been beautifully restored: the Fondouk el-Nejjarine is now a museum (see above). Others function as mixed-use craft centers. The fondouk shops tend to be more curated than regular souk stalls — the artisans are often graduates of the traditional arts school or younger craftspeople experimenting with contemporary designs. Products range from traditional (leather, brass, textiles) to modern interpretations (design-forward ceramics, contemporary jewelry, recycled-material goods). The courtyard settings are photogenic and peaceful — fountains, tilework, and carved wood. Some fondouks host temporary exhibitions or craft demonstrations. The atmosphere is quieter and less pressured than the open souks — you can browse at your own pace. Look for the fondouks around Talaa Kebira and the Rcif area. The Fondouk Chemaa (near the Rcif gate) has a cluster of craft shops on its upper galleries with views over the medina. No bargaining required at most fondouk shops — prices are usually fair and displayed.
R'cif Gate Market District
Local MarketThe working market of the eastern medina — where Fassi families do their daily shopping and prices reflect local reality, not tourist expectations. The R'cif district (around Bab Rcif gate) is the commercial heart of the residential medina: a dense cluster of shops, stalls, and push-cart vendors selling everything from vegetables and spices to clothing and household goods. The produce market has seasonal fruits, vegetables, and the famous Fes olives (cracked green olives seasoned with harissa and preserved lemons — buy a kilo for 20–30 MAD). The spice stalls sell the same products as the Attarine souk at 30–50% less. The bread bakeries (ferrane) sell fresh khobz (round flatbread, 1.5–2 MAD per loaf) and mlawi (layered flatbread, 3–5 MAD). The household goods section has woven baskets, clay pots, and wooden kitchen utensils at local prices. The atmosphere is vibrant, genuine, and completely untouristic — expect to be the only foreigner. Shopkeepers are friendly but don't speak much English (basic French is helpful). The market is busiest in the morning (8–11am) and late afternoon (4–7pm). The surrounding streets have small cafés serving harira (lentil soup, 5–10 MAD), msemmen (flatbread, 3–5 MAD), and fresh juice (10–15 MAD). Access: enter through Bab Rcif gate from Place Rcif (taxi dropoff point). Best for experiencing Fes as locals live it and buying food products at genuine prices.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What should I buy in Fes?
Fes is Morocco's undisputed craft capital. The best buys: blue-and-white ceramics (Fes is the origin of this iconic style — plates, bowls, tagines, and tiles), leather goods from the Chouara tanneries (bags, jackets, slippers — the oldest tanneries in the world), brass and copper work (teapots, trays, lamps from Seffarine Square), embroidered fabrics and kaftans (Fes embroidery is the most refined in Morocco), zellige tiles (geometric mosaic tiles made by hand), and Fassi cosmetics (handmade soap, rose water, and perfume). Fes crafts tend to be higher quality and lower price than Marrakech equivalents because Fes is less touristic.
Is shopping in Fes cheaper than Marrakech?
Generally yes. Fes receives fewer tourists than Marrakech, so the price inflation and aggressive bargaining tactics are less extreme. Ceramics are significantly cheaper in Fes (where they're made) — a hand-painted plate that costs 200 MAD in Marrakech might be 80–120 MAD in Fes. Leather goods are comparable in price but the quality at the Chouara tanneries is considered superior. Brass and copperwork is cheaper in Fes. Spices and food products are roughly the same. The main difference is the shopping experience — Fes shopkeepers are generally more relaxed, less pushy, and more willing to discuss their craft.
Do I need a guide for shopping in Fes medina?
It depends. The Fes medina is the world's largest car-free urban area with over 9,000 lanes — it's genuinely easy to get lost. A licensed guide (300–500 MAD for half day) helps you navigate efficiently and provides craft context. However, guides receive commission from shops they bring you to (20–40%), which inflates prices. The alternative: use Google Maps offline (it works surprisingly well in the medina), stick to the main arteries (Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seghira), and explore side lanes at your own pace. If you do use a guide, tell them upfront that you want to explore independently and only visit shops you choose.