Discovering...
Off the Beaten Path
12 Hidden Gems in Essaouira
Wind City secrets: underground workshops, wild Atlantic coves, Gnaoua rhythms, argan cooperatives, and the creative bohemian soul beneath the ramparts.
1
Thuya Wood Workshops Under the Skala
Craft Beneath the Skala de la Ville — stone stairway down from the ramparts
Beneath the Skala de la Ville (the sea-facing ramparts), 18th-century Portuguese-era cellars have been converted into thuya woodworking workshops. Master craftsmen carve chess sets, boxes, and decorative pieces from thuya wood — an aromatic, knotted wood unique to this region. The workshops are free to enter and watch. The smell of fresh thuya shavings in the cool stone vaults is extraordinary. The craft is Essaouira's signature — the geometric inlay patterns (marquetry) are done by eye using hand tools. Some workshops have been in the same family for generations. Prices here are lower than in the medina shops above.
2
Borj el-Barmil Circular Fort
Architecture End of the harbour breakwater — walk past the fishing boats
The Borj el-Barmil (Tower of the Barrels) is a circular fortification at the tip of the harbour breakwater — the most atmospheric defensive structure in Essaouira and one most tourists miss. Walk to the end of the harbour jetty to reach it. The circular cannon emplacements (the "barrels" of the name) point seaward. The views: the medina walls from the ocean side, the Île de Mogador (Purple Islands) in the distance, and the Atlantic stretching to the horizon. The tower is often empty. The sunset from here — with the medina silhouetted behind you — is spectacular. Free.
3
Sidi Kaouki Beach
Nature Sidi Kaouki, 25km south — grand taxi 80–100 MAD
Twenty-five kilometres south of Essaouira, Sidi Kaouki is a wild, windswept beach that feels like the edge of the world. A marabout (shrine) sits on the headland. The sand stretches for kilometres in both directions — empty. Surfers and wind/kitesurfers use the northern end; the rest is deserted. A few guesthouses and cafés line the shore but this is not a resort. The wind is powerful (bring layers), the waves are dramatic, and the sense of isolation is real. Grand taxi from Essaouira costs 80–100 MAD one way. The beach at sunset is extraordinary.
4
Gnaoua Music Workshops
Music Music shops near Place Moulay Hassan — ask for "maâlem Gnaoua"
Gnaoua music — a trance tradition with roots in sub-Saharan African spiritual practice — was born in Essaouira. While the annual Gnaoua Festival (June) is famous, the music lives year-round in informal workshops and practice sessions. Ask at the music instrument shops in the medina (near Place Moulay Hassan) about rehearsals or private sessions — Gnaoua masters (maalems) sometimes play for small groups. The instruments — the sintir (bass lute), qraqeb (metal castanets), and drums — create rhythms that build over hours. Hearing Gnaoua in a small room is a completely different experience from the festival stage.
5
Mellah & Former Synagogues
Heritage Mellah quarter — enter from Rue du Mellah or the side streets near the port
Essaouira's mellah (Jewish quarter) was one of Morocco's most important — at its peak, the Jewish community outnumbered the Muslim population. The quarter has a distinct architectural style: carved wooden balconies (unique to Jewish houses in Morocco), wider lanes, and former synagogues. The Slat Lkahal Synagogue (Rue du Mellah) has been partially restored and is open to visitors (donation). The Hebrew inscriptions on some buildings remain. The quarter tells the story of Jewish-Muslim coexistence in Morocco — a narrative that's disappearing as the last Jewish residents leave. The architecture is beautiful and the lanes are quiet.
6
Diabat: Jimi Hendrix Village
Culture 5km south — walk along the beach or take the road
Diabat — a small village 5km south along the beach — is where Jimi Hendrix reportedly stayed in the late 1960s. The ruins of the Dar Sultan (a former royal palace on the dunes) are atmospheric and free. The walk from Essaouira along the beach passes the mouth of the Oued Ksob (river) — wade across at low tide or take the bridge. Diabat itself is a quiet village with a few cafés. The dune landscape, the ruins, and the Hendrix legend create a bohemian atmosphere. Local cafés play Hendrix year-round. The truth of his stay is debated — the legend is firmly established.
7
Île de Mogador View from the Port
Nature Harbour breakwater or Skala du Port — look northwest
The Îles Purpuraires (Purple Islands) — two small islands offshore — are visible from Essaouira but almost impossible to visit (they're a nature reserve, home to Eleonora's falcons). The best view is from the tip of the harbour breakwater or the Skala du Port. The islands were a Phoenician trading post and a Roman dye works (Tyrian purple — hence "Purple Islands"). In certain light, the islands look like they're floating. The Eleonora's falcons (one of the world's rarest raptors) nest here from April to October. Binoculars are useful but not essential. Free to view.
8
Argan Oil Cooperatives
Craft Several cooperatives on the road to Marrakech (N8), 10–20km east — taxi 100–150 MAD return
The area around Essaouira is the heart of argan country — the argan tree grows almost nowhere else on Earth. Women's cooperatives outside town crack argan nuts by hand, grind the kernels, and press the oil using traditional methods. The cooperatives welcome visitors for free demonstrations: watch the cracking (a skill learned over years), taste the oil (culinary and cosmetic grades taste different), and buy directly at cooperative prices (50–70% below medina shop prices). The women who work here are typically Amazigh — the cooperatives provide income and independence. The nutty taste of fresh argan oil is addictive.
9
Rampart Walk at Dawn
Experience Skala de la Ville — before 8 AM. Enter from the north gate
The Skala de la Ville — the 18th-century sea ramparts — is Essaouira's most iconic sight. At dawn (before 8 AM), the ramparts are deserted. Walk the full length: bronze cannons pointing seaward, the Atlantic crashing below, the medina rooftops catching the first gold light, and nobody else around. The ramparts featured in Game of Thrones (Astapor) — the dragon scenes were filmed on the Skala du Port. The Orson Welles connection is here too — he filmed part of Othello on these ramparts in 1949. The dawn light on the Portuguese stonework is photographically perfect. Free.
10
Fish Auction at the Port
Experience Fishing port — enter from Place Moulay Hassan, 7–9 AM
Essaouira's fishing port is Morocco's third-largest sardine port — and the morning fish auction (7–9 AM) is a free spectacle. Blue boats unload the night's catch. Sardines, swordfish, squid, octopus, and conger eels are laid on the stone floor. Buyers shout bids. Seagulls circle overhead. The auction is fast, loud, and chaotic. After the auction, the outdoor grill restaurants along the port cook whatever was just landed — the freshest seafood lunch in Morocco costs 40–60 MAD. The port is free to walk through. The morning light on the blue boats and silver fish is spectacular.
11
Hidden Rooftop Terraces
Views Various — Taros terrace (Place Moulay Hassan) is the most accessible
Essaouira's medina riads (many now guesthouses or restaurants) have rooftop terraces with views over the Atlantic, the port, and the medina rooftops. Several restaurants offer rooftop dining without staying the night: Taros on Place Moulay Hassan has a famous terrace (mint tea 15 MAD, no food minimum), and smaller riads in the quieter northern medina offer terrace access to visitors for the price of a tea. The sunsets from these terraces — above the medina, watching the light change over the Atlantic — are among Essaouira's finest experiences. Ask at riad front desks.
12
Spice & Herb Market Behind the Souk
Market Behind the main souk entrance — walk past the first row of stalls and go deeper
Behind the main souk (which most tourists see), a smaller market sells spices, dried herbs, and traditional remedies. Cumin, saffron, ras el hanout (Essaouira's blend is distinct from Marrakech's), dried roses, lavender, and medicinal herbs are displayed in sacks and jars. The vendors are knowledgeable about traditional uses — ask about any herb and you'll get a detailed explanation. The prices are 30–50% below the tourist-facing stalls. The market also sells local honey (argan-flower honey is a regional speciality) and preserved lemons. Free to browse and sample.
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Frequently Asked Questions
What are the best hidden gems in Essaouira?
Essaouira's best hidden gems include the thuya wood workshops in the Skala cellars (watch master craftsmen carve aromatic wood in 18th-century Portuguese tunnels), the Borj el-Barmil (a circular fortification with cannon emplacements and 360-degree ocean views), Sidi Kaouki beach (a wild, windswept beach 25km south with almost no tourists), the Gnaoua music workshops where master musicians rehearse (ask at music shops for informal sessions), and the mellah (Jewish quarter) with its carved wooden balconies and former synagogues. The argan oil cooperatives outside town offer free tastings and the real production process.
Is Essaouira good for non-touristy experiences?
Yes — Essaouira is one of Morocco's most authentic cities despite its popularity. The medina is a UNESCO World Heritage site where 40,000 people still live and work. The fishing port is genuine (Morocco's third-largest sardine port), the thuya woodworkers practice an art unique to this region, the Gnaoua music tradition is living, and the camel rides on the beach are a local activity, not a tourist invention. Walk the beach south toward Diabat (Jimi Hendrix's former hangout) and you'll be alone within 15 minutes. The wind keeps mass tourism at bay — it's too windy for sunbathing much of the year.