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East bank of Fes el-Bali — the side most tourists skip
Fes Andalusian Quarter: East Bank Guide
Cross the river. The Andalusian quarter is older, quieter, and more local than anything on the Qarawiyyin side — and almost nobody goes.
Leila Tazi· Fes, Culture & Cuisine Editor
Fes-based journalist with a food and crafts obsession, Leila spends her weeks between the tanneries, the Qarawiyyin quarter and the kitchens of the old city. She covers Fes, Meknes, food and Moroccan culture. Fes · 11+ years covering Morocco
Published 1 May 2025 Last updated 16 April 2026
The Andalusian quarter is the east bank of Fes el-Bali, and it is the part of the medina that most guided tours never reach. Cross the Oued Fes river from the Qarawiyyin side and the mood shifts immediately: fewer tourists, working craftspeople, children finishing school, the smell of fresh bread rather than tourist-souk leather. This is not a hidden village — it is a living neighbourhood of one of the world's oldest cities — but it feels like a different register entirely.
The quarter gets its name from the waves of refugees who fled Al-Andalus (medieval Spain) between the 8th and 15th centuries and settled here. They brought with them the architectural sensibility that would shape Moorish-Moroccan style: elaborate stucco, carved cedar ceilings, and the kind of mosque that can hold a city's worth of devotion. The Al-Andalusiyyin mosque, founded in 859 CE by a woman named Mariam, is the east bank's anchor — and in most of the travel literature about Fes, it barely gets a sentence.
What follows is a practical guide to what you will find over there, how to get there, and why the walk is worth the mild disorientation.
What to See in the Andalusian Quarter
Five landmarks worth orienting a walk around — none of them require an entrance ticket.
Al-Andalusiyyin Mosque
Founded 859 CE — sister mosque to the Qarawiyyin, non-Muslim exterior only
Bab el-Ftouh Gate & Cemetery
Monumental 12th-century gate with views over the Andalusian rooftops
Rcif Square (Place er-Rcif)
The unofficial crossroads of east Fes — catch a petit taxi or grab msemen here
East-bank Souk Alleys
Carpenters, blacksmiths and bakers rather than tourist trinkets
Saffarin Madrasa (nearby)
Quieter alternative to the Bou Inania; zellige courtyard without the crowds
The Al-Andalusiyyin Mosque: A Brief History
Most visitors know the Qarawiyyin mosque as the heart of Fes — it is one of the oldest continuously-operating universities in the world, founded in 859 CE by Fatima al-Fihri. What the guidebooks often omit: nine years earlier, Fatima's brother had helped build the Al-Andalusiyyin mosque across the river, and it was Fatima's sister Mariam who funded it. Two sisters, two mosques, one city divided by a shallow river. The Al-Andalusiyyin came first.
The Marinid sultans expanded both mosques in the 13th and 14th centuries, adding carved cedar porticos, green-tiled minarets and the decorative stonework that defines Moroccan sacred architecture. The Al-Andalusiyyin's north façade — the wall you can examine freely as a non-Muslim visitor — has an intricate carved-stone doorway framed by geometric tilework. Stand in front of it for five minutes and you will see details that a hurried glance misses.
The mosque is still active and closed to non-Muslims, as is standard across Morocco. Dress respectfully when you are nearby, keep voices low during prayer times, and give worshippers space at the entrances.
Visitor note: All active mosques in Morocco are closed to non-Muslim visitors. You can admire and photograph the Al-Andalusiyyin exterior freely. Avoid the entrances during the five daily prayer times.
The east-bank alleys have a working-neighbourhood atmosphere that the main tourist routes largely lack.
East Bank vs West Bank: What Actually Differs
Fes el-Bali is split by the Oued Fes river into two historically distinct neighbourhoods. Understanding that split helps you plan your time — and explains why crossing the river feels like entering a different city.
| Aspect | Qarawiyyin Side (West Bank) | Andalusian Quarter (East Bank) |
|---|---|---|
| Tourist density | Very high — main tour circuit | Low — mostly local foot traffic |
| Key landmark | Qarawiyyin mosque, Chouara tannery | Al-Andalusiyyin mosque, Bab el-Ftouh |
| Souk character | Mix of tourist goods & crafts | Primarily local daily goods |
| Tannery access | Chouara (larger, more visited) | Sidi Moussa (smaller, quieter) |
| Atmosphere | Busy, curated, photogenic | Residential, working, unposed |
| Navigation difficulty | Moderate — well-worn paths | High — very easy to get lost |
Getting There & Getting Around
The Andalusian quarter is not hard to reach — it is simply not on the standard tour route. Here is what to know before you go.
Starting pointBab Boujloud (Blue Gate) in Fes el-Bali — 15–20 min walk east
From the tanneriesWalk uphill from Sidi Moussa tannery toward Rcif; 10–12 min
Petit taxiAsk for "Rcif" or "Bab el-Ftouh" — fares from 10–15 MAD within the medina area
Time needed2–3 hours for a relaxed walk; 45 min if you only want the mosque exterior and main alley
Best time of dayMorning (8–11 am) for light, quiet streets and open bakeries
AdmissionNo entrance fees for public streets; mosque exterior free to observe
A practical tip: walk toward Rcif Square first, orient yourself at the square, then head uphill toward the Al-Andalusiyyin mosque. From the mosque, a lane heading northeast will bring you toward Bab el-Ftouh and its views. Give yourself permission to take wrong turns — the alleys dead-end and double back in ways that mapping apps cannot always resolve, but they do eventually lead somewhere recognisable. The neighbourhoods are safe; the only genuine risk is losing an hour pleasantly.
If you want to understand what you are looking at rather than simply walk through it, a private guided walking tour makes an enormous difference on the east bank. Local guides who know the Andalusian quarter — rather than guides who do the standard Qarawiyyin circuit — can take you into workshops, explain which families have been working which craft for how many generations, and show you the side passages that lead to decorated fountains invisible from the main lanes.
When to Visit & Practical Tips
Best time of day
Early morning (8–11 am) is ideal: the light is soft, the bread ovens are active, and the lanes are calm before the city fully wakes. Friday mornings are particularly atmospheric around the mosque before midday prayers — but be prepared for heavier local foot traffic near the entrance.
Best season
Spring (March–May) and autumn (September–November) are the most pleasant for walking — temperatures between 18–26°C make extended wandering comfortable. Summer afternoons in the narrow alleys can push 38°C; if you visit in July or August, go early and carry water.
What to wear
Modest clothing is respectful in any medina neighbourhood, especially near active mosques. Covered shoulders and knees are appropriate; this is a residential area, not a resort. Comfortable walking shoes matter more than you might expect — cobblestones are uneven and occasionally steep.
Photography etiquette
Always ask before photographing people, particularly women and children. Many residents are comfortable with it; many are not. The architectural details — doorways, tiled fountains, carved cedar overhangs — are yours to photograph freely. The mosque entrance requires sensitivity; step back and use a longer focal length rather than pressing close.
Andalusian Quarter Fes — FAQs
What is the Andalusian quarter in Fes?
The Andalusian quarter (Al-Andalus neighbourhood) is the east bank of Fes el-Bali, divided from the Qarawiyyin side by the Oued Fes river. It was settled in the 9th century by refugees expelled from Al-Andalus — what is now Spain — and gives the quarter its name. It contains its own great mosque, a separate souk network, and a distinctly quieter atmosphere than the tourist-heavy western bank. Most visitors never cross the river, which is exactly why it is worth going.
Is the Andalusian quarter in Fes worth visiting?
Yes — precisely because most tourists skip it. The alleyways are narrower and more atmospheric than the main medina thoroughfares, the craftspeople are working rather than performing, and the Al-Andalusiyyin mosque exterior is genuinely beautiful without a crowd in front of it. If you have already done the Qarawiyyin, Bou Inania and the tanneries, the east bank adds real depth to your understanding of Fes. Allow at least two hours; the disorientation is part of the point.
What is in the east bank of Fes medina?
The key landmarks are the Al-Andalusiyyin mosque (founded 859 CE, non-Muslims view the exterior only), Bab el-Ftouh — a massive 12th-century gate that leads to one of the largest cemeteries in Fes — Rcif Square, and a series of working souks focused on everyday goods: bread, hardware, carpentry and textiles bought by locals rather than tourists. The Saffarin Madrasa, technically on the boundary between the two banks, is worth ducking into if it is open.
How do I get to the Andalusian side of Fes from the tanneries?
From the Sidi Moussa tanneries (the smaller, quieter tannery on the east bank), you are already in the Andalusian quarter. If you are coming from the main Chouara tannery on the western side, cross one of the small bridges over Oued Fes — ask anyone for Rcif or the mosque. The walk from Bab Boujloud (the Blue Gate) takes roughly 20 minutes through the medina; it is an easy landmark to navigate from. A petit taxi to Bab el-Ftouh costs 10–15 MAD (indicative).
What is the Al-Andalusiyyin mosque in Fes?
The Al-Andalusiyyin mosque was founded in 859 CE by Mariam, daughter of an Andalusian merchant — nine years after her brother founded the Qarawiyyin mosque across the river. The two sister mosques defined the dual character of Fes el-Bali. The Al-Andalusiyyin was expanded under the Marinids in the 13th–14th centuries and retains a spectacular carved wood portico and green-tiled minaret. Non-Muslims may not enter but the exterior, particularly the north façade, is worth standing in front of for a few minutes.
Is the Andalusian quarter of Fes less crowded than the main medina?
Significantly so. The western bank (Qarawiyyin side) handles the vast majority of tour groups, souvenir shops and curated medina experiences. The Andalusian quarter sees a fraction of that traffic. On a busy Friday morning in the main medina you might squeeze past hundreds of tourists; cross the river and you will mostly pass schoolchildren, bread deliveries and the occasional cat asleep in a doorway. That is not to say it is empty — the residential alleys are lively with local life — but it is a completely different register.
Can I explore the Andalusian quarter without a guide?
You can, and getting a little lost is part of what makes it memorable. That said, the street grid is genuinely complex and mapping apps lose signal in the narrower alleys. A local guide who lives on the east bank adds real context — the neighbourhood histories, the families who have worked the same craft for generations, the side passages that lead to tucked-away fountains. If you are short on time or want to understand what you are looking at, a private guided walking tour makes the difference between a pleasant wander and a genuinely illuminating morning.
Plan it with a local expert
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