The medina at 07:00 in July is unexpectedly lovely. The light is golden, the lanes smell of fresh-baked bread and cedar wood shavings from the craftsmen’s workshops, and the square is almost quiet. You can photograph the Koutoubia minaret against a pale blue sky without a single other tourist in the frame.
By 10:00, the souks fill with the first organised tours and the temperature starts climbing fast. Covered souks — the carpet and metalwork lanes especially — stay noticeably cooler than open streets because the overhead roofs trap shade and the stone floors hold the night’s cold. This is the best time to browse seriously, before the midday heat drives everyone to the same cafés.
The 12:00–17:30 gap is the honest challenge. Even shade is hot at 42 °C; the air itself is warm. Most well-designed riads, however, hold their temperature remarkably well — the metre-thick earthen walls and the evaporative cooling of a central fountain courtyard can feel 6–8 °C cooler than the street outside. This is where you eat lunch slowly, read, or nap like the rest of the city.
The evening, from 18:00 onward, redeems everything. Djemaa el-Fna comes alive with snake charmers, storytellers, gnaoua musicians and rows of outdoor grills sending smoke into a copper-coloured sky. The temperature drops to around 28–30 °C, which after an afternoon of 42 °C feels genuinely cool. Dinner on a medina rooftop terrace, with the Koutoubia lit up and the Atlas silhouetted to the south, is one of the better meals you will have in Morocco — the atmosphere makes the food taste better.