Holy town above Volubilis

Moulay Idriss Zerhoun

Morocco's holiest town, on twin hills above the Roman ruins of Volubilis, where the first Moroccan dynasty began.

From Meknes: About 30 km, 30 minutes
Volubilis: About 5 km, 1 hour on foot
Mausoleum: Muslims only inside
Stay: One night

The Birthplace of Morocco

Moulay Idriss Zerhoun is where Morocco began. In 788 Idris ibn Abdallah, a descendant of the Prophet Muhammad fleeing the Abbasids, reached the Amazigh (Berber) lands around the old Roman town of Volubilis. The Awraba tribe there recognised his lineage and swore allegiance, and the Idrisid dynasty, Morocco's first Islamic dynasty, began. The town that grew around his tomb is the holiest in the country; it is said that five pilgrimages here equal one hajj to Mecca.

The town spills over two hills, Khiber and Tasga, with the mausoleum in the saddle between them and whitewashed houses climbing the slopes above. Below, the plain runs out to the Roman ruins of Volubilis, about 5 km away: an hour's walk through olive groves separates the two.

Non-Muslims could not stay overnight until 2005. A handful of restored guesthouses now take all visitors, which makes this one of the best overnight stops in the north. This guide covers the sacred sights, Volubilis, food and olive oil, the moussem, practicalities and an overnight plan.

Sacred & Cultural Sights

Non-Muslims are welcome throughout the town but cannot enter the mausoleum or mosque prayer halls.

Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss I: Exterior only for non-Muslims. 30 to 45 minutesIdris ibn Abdallah, a descendant of the Prophet Muhammad, fled the Abbasids and reached the old Roman town of Walili (Volubilis) in 788. The Amazigh (Berber) tribes there accepted his authority, and he founded the Idrisid dynasty, the first Islamic dynasty of Morocco. His tomb, rebuilt and embellished by later sultans, is the most revered pilgrimage site in the country, under a green-tiled pyramidal roof. Non-Muslims can approach the entrance but not go in. Do not photograph people at prayer.
The Grand Terrace: Free. 30 minutes to 1 hourThe town's best viewpoint, near the Khiber hill: the whitewashed houses spill down both hills with the green roof of the mausoleum between them, and the plain spreads beyond towards Volubilis and Meknes. Ask anyone for directions. Sunset is the popular time; if you stay the night, sunrise is just as fine and empty.
The cylindrical minaret: Free, from outside. 15 to 20 minutesMoroccan minarets are almost all square, which makes the round minaret of the Sentissi Mosque, built in 1939 and covered in green tiles with a band of Quranic inscription, a curiosity. It is often described as the only cylindrical minaret in Morocco. It is easy to miss: walk uphill from the main square and ask. The streets around it are quiet and residential.
The town on foot: Free. 1 to 2 hoursMoulay Idriss is a compact hill town, not a large medina. Steep lanes wind between whitewashed houses, neighbourhood mosques, communal bread ovens and small shops, and a small market near the main square sells produce, olives and spices. You cannot get seriously lost: the two hills and the mausoleum roof are your landmarks. The western hill, Tasga, is the quieter. Wear shoes with good grip.

Volubilis & Excursions

Volubilis: UNESCO World Heritage site. 2 to 3 hoursAbout 5 km from Moulay Idriss, Volubilis is the finest Roman site in Morocco. A Mauretanian town before the Romans, it became an important city of the province in the 1st century AD. The ruins include the Capitoline Temple, the basilica, the Arch of Caracalla, olive presses and houses with their mosaic floors still in place; the House of Orpheus and the House of the Labours of Hercules are among the best. Come at opening time or in the late afternoon to miss the day-trip groups from Fes and Meknes. Official guides wait at the entrance. Check the ticket price and opening hours at the gate.
The walk to Volubilis: About 5 km, 1 hour one wayThe road from Moulay Idriss runs gently downhill through olive groves and fields, with the columns and the arch slowly appearing ahead. There is no separate path, but traffic is light. Set out early, before the heat, with water. Walk back uphill, or take a small taxi from the Volubilis car park. Spring brings wildflowers.
Walks on the Zerhoun: Free. 3 to 5 hoursJebel Zerhoun rises behind the town, its slopes covered in olive groves, figs and scrub. Paths lead up to the ridge, with views over the plain and Volubilis and, on clear days, towards the Middle Atlas. The walking is steep in places but short. Paths are not marked, so ask your guesthouse to arrange a local guide. Go in spring or autumn and start early.

Food, Olive Oil & Local Life

Olive oil: Harvest November to JanuaryThe Zerhoun is olive country, and Volubilis was already pressing oil in Roman times. Small presses in and around town are busy during the harvest, when families bring in their olives. Guesthouses can often arrange a visit to a working press. The rest of the year, local oil comes with bread at breakfast, and shops on the main square sell it by the bottle.
Eating: Guesthouses and the main squareThere is no restaurant scene. The best meals are at the guesthouses: tagines with local olives and preserved lemon, couscous with farm vegetables, harira, bread with olive oil and honey. Book dinner in advance. The cafes and grills round the main square serve simple tagines, brochettes, bean soup and salads. Nougat is sold in town, especially at the moussem.
The moussem: Several days, usually August or SeptemberThe annual pilgrimage to the tomb of Moulay Idriss I draws pilgrims from across the country, with Quran recitation, Sufi gatherings, fantasia (horsemen firing muskets in unison) on the plain below the town, music, food stalls and crowds. Non-Muslims can watch the processions, the fantasia and the street celebrations, but not enter the mausoleum or the religious ceremonies. Dress modestly, ask before photographing people, and book a room long in advance.
Sunset from a terrace: An hour before darkFrom a guesthouse roof terrace or a cafe above the square, the white houses turn gold, the mausoleum roof glows and the call to prayer carries across the valley. Settle in half an hour before sunset.

Practical Information

Getting there: Via Meknes, about 30 kmShared grand taxis run from Meknes, about 30 minutes. From Fes, take a grand taxi or a train to Meknes and change. Some visitors arrive by way of Volubilis. A car with driver from Fes makes a day of Meknes, Volubilis and Moulay Idriss.
Staying overnight: A handful of guesthousesNon-Muslims could not stay overnight until 2005. Now a handful of guesthouses take all visitors, several with views from the roof. Rooms are few, so book ahead.
Getting around: On footThe town is small and walkable, but steep and sometimes stepped. For Volubilis, walk, take a small taxi, or ask your guesthouse to arrange transport.
When to go: Spring and autumnMarch to May for wildflowers and mild weather; autumn for the run-up to the olive harvest. The moussem is remarkable but crowded. Winter is mild but can be wet. In summer, go out early and late.
Respect: A holy townCover shoulders and knees. Do not try to enter the mausoleum or mosques. Ask before photographing people, and avoid long-lens shots into the mausoleum courtyard. Do not drink alcohol in public.
Money: Bring cashMost places take cash only, and the town has only basic shops. Bring cash and anything you need from Meknes or Fes.

Bab Mansour, the monumental tiled gate of Meknes, with a woman in a blue djellaba walking past — Bab Mansour in Meknes, the usual gateway to Moulay Idriss, 30 km away. Photograph: Steven Lek, CC BY-SA 4.0

Perfect Overnight Itinerary

Arrive in the afternoon, stay the night, walk to Volubilis in the morning.

Day 1, afternoon: arrive and explore
Arrive by grand taxi from Meknes and check into your guesthouse. Walk to the mausoleum entrance (from outside for non-Muslims), find the cylindrical minaret, and wander the lanes of both hills.
Day 1, evening: the Grand Terrace
Sunset from the Grand Terrace, then a home-cooked dinner at your guesthouse: tagine with local olives, bread with local olive oil, salads and mint tea. With little light in town, the stars are good from the roof.
Day 2, early: walk to Volubilis
Walk the 5 km to Volubilis through the olive groves to arrive at opening time, while the light is low and the site quiet. See the Capitoline Temple, the basilica, the Arch of Caracalla and the mosaics, with an official guide if you like. Allow 2 to 3 hours.
Day 2, late morning: back and away
A small taxi back to Moulay Idriss, a late breakfast with bread, olive oil, honey and amlou, olive oil or nougat from the square, then a grand taxi to Meknes or on to Fes.

Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

Can non-Muslims visit Moulay Idriss?

Yes. Non-Muslims can walk the town, eat in its cafes and stay overnight in its guesthouses. The only restriction is the Mausoleum of Moulay Idriss I: non-Muslims cannot enter the mausoleum or its sanctuary, though the green-tiled roof can be seen from viewpoints around town. Non-Muslims were not able to stay overnight until 2005.

How do I get from Meknes to Moulay Idriss?

By shared grand taxi from Meknes, about 30 minutes; return taxis leave from the main square in Moulay Idriss. You can also hire a whole taxi for the trip, and many visitors combine it with Volubilis.

Is Moulay Idriss worth visiting?

Yes. Its hillside setting, the views from the Grand Terrace, Volubilis about 5 km away and its place in the founding of the Moroccan state make it one of the most rewarding small towns in the north, and still a quiet one.

How far is Volubilis from Moulay Idriss?

About 5 km: a 10-minute drive or roughly an hour on foot through olive groves. The walk is gently downhill from Moulay Idriss to Volubilis, and small taxis make the trip back.

What is the moussem of Moulay Idriss?

The annual moussem is a major religious pilgrimage festival honoring the founder of the Idrisid dynasty. Held over several days, usually in August or September, it features religious ceremonies, Sufi music, fantasia (horseback displays), food markets, and celebrations. Non-Muslims can observe the public festivities.

Where should I stay in Moulay Idriss?

In one of the town's small guesthouses, several with roof terraces looking over the town, and most serving home-cooked dinner on request. There are few rooms, so book ahead, especially in spring and at the moussem.

How many days do you need in Moulay Idriss?

One night is ideal. Arrive in the afternoon, walk the town and the Grand Terrace, watch the sunset and eat at your guesthouse, then walk to Volubilis early the next morning and leave by early afternoon. A day trip from Meknes or Fes is possible, but you miss the town in the evening.

Plan it with a local expert