Discovering...
Discovering...

Inside a restored 18th-century caravanserai on one of the medina’s most beautiful squares — three floors of woodwork, an exceptional cedar courtyard, and a rooftop view over Fes el-Bali.
Leila Tazi· Fes, Culture & Cuisine Editor
Fes-based journalist with a food and crafts obsession, Leila spends her weeks between the tanneries, the Qarawiyyin quarter and the kitchens of the old city. She covers Fes, Meknes, food and Moroccan culture. Fes · 11+ years covering Morocco
Published 15 December 2025 Last updated 21 March 2026
The Nejjarine Museum is one of the most rewarding 90 minutes you can spend in Fes medina, and it is also one of the most underused. Most visitors walk past the square on their way between Bab Bou Jeloud and the tanneries, pause at the mosaic fountain for a photograph, and keep moving. That is a mistake.
The building — an 18th-century fondouk, the type of multi-storey inn and warehouse that once served merchant caravans across the Islamic world — was restored in the 1990s and turned into a museum of Moroccan wooden arts. The restoration is exceptional: the cedar arcade rising three storeys around a central courtyard fountain, the geometric carved capitals, the zellige floor tiles. You could spend twenty minutes just in the courtyard.
Beyond the architecture, three floors hold a serious collection of carved doors, mashrabiyya screens, painted ceilings, musical instruments and decorative woodwork drawn from palaces, mosques and private houses across Morocco. The rooftop terrace, reached by steep internal stairs, opens up a rare panoramic view over the medina roofscape. Entrance costs around 20–25 MAD — approximately $2.
| Location | Place Nejjarine, Fes el-Bali (the old medina) |
| Entrance fee | ~20–25 MAD (indicative, confirm on arrival) |
| Opening hours | Daily 10:00–17:00 (confirm locally; Ramadan hours vary) |
| Time needed | 45–75 minutes for the collection; add 20 min for the rooftop |
| Getting there | On foot from Bab Bou Jeloud (~20 min); or from the Qarawiyyin mosque (~5 min) |
| Photography | Allowed inside; no flash on fragile pieces |
Hours and fees are indicative. Confirm locally; Ramadan and public holidays may affect opening times.
The museum rewards a slow walk. Here are the four things that justify the visit.
The centrepiece of the building — a three-storey cedar-carved arcade rising around a central fountain, its columns and capitals still carrying centuries-old geometric carving. Arrive in the morning when light falls directly into the atrium.
Across three floors you move through a chronological survey of Moroccan wooden craft: doors, mashrabiyya screens, carved cedarwood panels, mother-of-pearl inlay boxes, and historic musical instruments. Labels are in Arabic and French; the objects speak for themselves.
Reached via steep internal staircases, the terrace gives a wide view over the Nejjarine district roofscape and the minarets of Fes el-Bali. It is one of the few spots in the medina where you can orient yourself above the street-level maze. Bring a wide lens.
The museum opens onto one of the medina's most photogenic squares — mosaic fountain, tilework benches, and the smell of fresh-cut cedar from the carpenters' workshops along the lane. Worth sitting at the fountain for ten minutes before you go in.

The restored cedar arcade of the fondouk courtyard
Fes medina has no vehicular access inside the old city walls, so you walk. From Bab Bou Jeloud — the main blue gate that most visitors enter through — follow the main artery (Talaa Kebira) downhill for roughly 20 minutes, keeping left at the fork past the Medersa Bou Inania. Signs for Nejjarine appear sporadically; look for the wooden craftsmen workshops that announce the quarter.
From the Chouara tanneries, you can reach Nejjarine Square in about 10 minutes by heading west and following the sound of hammering from the carpenter ateliers. From the Qarawiyyin mosque, the square is a five-minute walk north through narrow lanes.
If you are navigating by phone, the square appears on Google Maps as "Place en-Nejjarine" or "Nejjarine Fountain." The museum entrance is on the square itself — look for the carved cedar doorway next to the fountain. A taxi can drop you at Bab Bou Jeloud or Bab Rcif (on the eastern side of the medina); neither can go further into the old city.
First-time visitors to Fes medina often underestimate how disorienting the lanes become. A private guide who knows the medina will get you from Bab Bou Jeloud to Nejjarine in half the time and with considerably less stress — and can add context to what you see inside the museum that printed labels alone cannot give you.
Best visit time
10:00–12:00 (good light in courtyard)
Entry fee
~20–25 MAD indicative
Nearest gate
Bab Bou Jeloud (~20 min walk)
Nejjarine means "carpenters" in Darija, and the craft has been practised in these lanes for centuries. Step outside the fondouk and the workshops are still operating: men shaping table legs on foot-powered lathes, others applying mother-of-pearl inlay to chess boards, a ceiling section being carved in a doorway. It is working craft production, not a staged demonstration.
The square itself — with its 18th-century mosaic fountain surrounded by carved cedar eaves — is one of the most photographed spots in Fes. Early morning is best before the tourist foot traffic builds; late afternoon light warms the tilework on the fountain. Cafés and juice stalls on the square are useful for a break between museum floors or before the walk back.
Combine the museum visit with the nearby Medersa Bou Inania (a 14th-century Quranic school with extraordinary stucco and zellige work, about 10 minutes west) and the Qarawiyyin mosque courtyard — which non-Muslims can glimpse through the open doorways — for a half-day in the northern medina that covers architecture, craft and history without needing to rush.
The Nejjarine Museum of Wooden Arts and Crafts occupies a restored 18th-century fondouk — a type of caravanserai that once housed merchants and their goods — on Nejjarine Square in the heart of Fes el-Bali. The building itself is the exhibit: its three-storey cedar arcade, zellige tilework, and carved plaster were meticulously restored in the 1990s. The collection on display covers Moroccan woodwork from doors and mashrabiyya screens to musical instruments, decorative boxes, and historic tools from the carpenters' trade that still operates in the lanes outside.
For most visitors, yes — but it depends what you are after. If you care about traditional craft, architecture, or photography, the Nejjarine rates among the top three things to do inside the medina. The building alone justifies the entrance fee: the courtyard cedar carving is exceptional, and the rooftop terrace offers a rare elevated view over Fes el-Bali. If you are tight on time and primarily interested in the tanneries or the Qarawiyyin mosque, you can give it 45 minutes as a connecting stop — it is only five minutes' walk from the mosque.
Nejjarine Square sits in the northern part of Fes el-Bali, roughly equidistant between Bab Bou Jeloud (the blue gate, around 20 minutes on foot through the main artery) and the Chouara tanneries (around 10 minutes' walk east). The square is marked by a large octagonal mosaic fountain and is surrounded by workshops of the nejjarine — the carpenters who give the quarter its name. If you get lost, asking for "Place Nejjarine" or "Fondouk Nejjarine" will get you there; the square is well known to locals.
Yes. The rooftop terrace is included in the museum admission and is accessed via steep internal staircases inside the fondouk. The climb is worth it: you get a 360-degree view over the roofscape of Fes el-Bali, including the minarets of the Qarawiyyin and Andalusian mosques and the surrounding hills. It is one of the only legitimate high vantage points inside the medina that does not require tipping a shop owner for roof access. Go in the late morning when the light is good over the city to the west.
The indicative entrance fee is around 20–25 MAD per person (roughly $2–$2.50 at 2026 rates), making it one of the better-value museums in Morocco relative to what you see. There is no separate charge for the rooftop — it is part of the same ticket. Children under a certain age are often free or half-price; confirm on arrival. The museum does not appear on the main booking platforms, so cash is the practical option. Bring small notes.
Most visitors spend 45–75 minutes working through the three floors of the collection at a comfortable pace. Add another 20 minutes if you want to linger on the rooftop terrace and take photographs of the cityscape. A rushed visit — courtyard, a floor or two, rooftop — is possible in 30–40 minutes, but the building deserves more than that. If you pair it with a stroll around Nejjarine Square and the carpenters' workshops outside, budget 90 minutes in the area total.
The museum does not include a guide in the standard admission, and the labelling is primarily in Arabic and French. To get the most from the collection — understanding the regional origins of different woodworking traditions, the symbolism in geometric carving, and the difference between thuya burl and cedarwood pieces — a private guide makes a significant difference. A good guide will also point out details easy to miss, like the original merchant ledger niches built into the fondouk walls. A private Fes medina tour that includes the museum is the practical way to do this well.
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