Discovering...
Morocco’s undisputed pottery capital
Safi Pottery Workshop & Artisan Tour
The Colline des Potiers in Safi is the real thing: 100+ working studios, wood-fired kilns, master craftsmen who welcome visitors, and prices far below what you’d pay in Marrakech. Here is how to make the most of it.
Yasmine El Amrani· Marrakech & Atlas Editor
Marrakech-born travel writer who has spent the last decade walking the medina’s souks and the High Atlas trails above Imlil. She covers the Red City, Berber villages and day trips into the mountains. Marrakech · 12+ years covering Morocco
Published 15 January 2025 Last updated 21 February 2026
Safi is Morocco’s pottery capital — and it has been for at least six centuries. The city sits on the Atlantic coast about three hours from Marrakech and two hours from Essaouira, yet it appears on almost no travellers’ itineraries. That is a genuine shame, because the Colline des Potiers (potters’ hill) is one of the most atmospheric craft quarters in the entire country: open-fronted studios stacked up a hillside, smoke rising from buried kilns, apprentices carrying raw clay down narrow alleys while masters brush cobalt-blue glaze onto plates with the kind of speed that only comes from doing something every day for forty years.
Unlike the more photographed tanneries of Fes, there is no viewing platform and no obligatory mint-sprig against the smell. You walk in off the street, watch at elbow distance, and — if you ask — someone will sit you down at a wheel. The finished goods sold at the base of the hill are also genuinely good value: the same tagines and platters sold in Marrakech’s Mellah for 300–500 MAD leave the Safi showrooms for 80–180 MAD. The detour pays for itself in one shopping bag.
Time needed
Half day (4–5 h)
Class cost
From ~200 MAD pp
Best for
Craft lovers, curious travellers
How a Colline des Potiers Visit Works
The potters’ hill is a working neighbourhood, not a museum — here is what to expect as the morning unfolds.
1
Arrive at the Colline des Potiers
The potters' hill sits at the north-eastern edge of the medina, just below the Portuguese Château de Mer. You'll smell the smoke from the wood-fired kilns before you see them. Dozens of open-fronted studios line the hillside, each run by a family that has passed the craft down for generations. Walk slowly — there is no admission fee and most masters are happy for you to watch.
2
Watch a kiln firing
Safi potters use large underground kilns fired with argane wood and olive pits. Firings typically happen in the late morning and are short but dramatic: you'll see apprentices stacking bisque-fired pieces on iron grates while the master adjusts the draft. Ask politely and you may be invited closer. Unlike Fes's famous tanneries, there's no balcony viewing platform here — you watch from ground level, which makes it more immediate.
3
Take a hands-on pottery class
Several family studios on the hill offer half-day wheel-throwing sessions for visitors. Sessions typically run 2–3 hours and cost indicatively 200–350 MAD (roughly $20–35) per person including materials and the chance to keep a small finished piece — though pieces glazed in Safi's distinctive blue-and-white palette need a second firing, so collect or ship later. Book directly at the studio or arrange in advance through a guide.
4
Browse the showroom quarter
At the base of the hill, a row of showrooms sells the finished goods at prices well below what you'd pay in Marrakech or Fes. Tagines, decorative plates, garden urns and the iconic fish-motif platters are all here. Prices are marked but negotiable — expect to haggle to around 70–80% of the asking price. Quality varies; look for even glaze coverage, no air bubbles under the surface, and a base that sits flat.
“The cobalt blue of Safi ceramics — called blue de Safi — is as distinctive as Chefchaouen’s walls, yet almost no one outside Morocco can name it.”
Getting to Safi
Safi sits on the Atlantic coast between Essaouira (north) and El Jadida (north again), roughly equidistant from Marrakech and Casablanca. Here are the main options — prices are indicative.
| From | Method | Time | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Marrakech | CTM / Supratours bus | ~3 h | Several departures daily from Bab Doukkala station; ~80–120 MAD |
| Essaouira | Bus or grand taxi | ~2 h | Grand taxi to El Jadida or Safi via coastal road; ~60–90 MAD |
| Casablanca | Bus or private car | ~3 h | CTM from Ouled Ziane station; ~80 MAD. Drive via N1 coastal highway |
| Marrakech | Private day trip | Full day | Departure ~7:30 am; allows 4–5 h in Safi before returning |
Safi has no train station — the nearest railhead is Benguerir, about 40 km inland on the Marrakech–Casablanca line. A private guided day trip is the most convenient option for visitors without a car, since it handles the transfers, navigates the medina and ensures you spend time with the right craftsmen rather than whoever approaches you first near the bus station.
What Else to See in Safi
A half-day at the Colline des Potiers leaves time to explore a medina that is genuinely off the tourist trail.
Château de Mer (Qasr al-Bahr)
Portuguese seafront fortress built 1508; houses a small ceramics museum with historical Safi pieces.
Kechla Citadel
16th-century hilltop fortification with views across the medina rooftops and the Atlantic — particularly striking at sunset.
Safi Medina Souks
Compact and far less touristic than Fes or Marrakech. The street of coppersmiths (Derb Sekkakin) and the spice market reward slow wandering.
Safi Harbour
An active sardine-fishing port. The morning catch is auctioned at the quayside fish market by around 7 am — arrive early or combine with an overnight stay.
Practical tip: Safi’s medina is small enough to navigate without a guide, but the potters’ quarter benefits from local introductions. If you arrive independently, attach yourself to a studio that catches your eye and spend time there rather than attempting to visit every kiln — quality time in one place beats a rushed Instagram circuit.
Safi Pottery Tour FAQs
Why is Safi famous for pottery in Morocco?
Safi has produced ceramics since at least the 14th century, when Andalusian potters brought their techniques south after the Reconquista. The city's combination of good Atlantic clay deposits, argane wood for kiln fuel, and a strong guild tradition made it Morocco's dominant pottery centre. Today the Colline des Potiers (potters' hill) houses more than 100 working studios and the city exports the majority of Morocco's mass-market ceramics, while master craftsmen still hand-paint the distinctive cobalt blue and turquoise designs that define the Safi style.
Can visitors watch potters work in Safi?
Yes — and this is one of the genuinely accessible artisan experiences in Morocco. The Colline des Potiers is an open working neighbourhood, not a museum or ticketed attraction. Studios face the alley with their doors open, so you can watch wheel-throwing, hand-painting and kiln loading without any formal arrangement. Most potters are accustomed to curious visitors and will demonstrate techniques willingly, especially if you show genuine interest. A guide can translate and introduce you to masters who might otherwise be too busy to engage.
Where is the potters' hill (Colline des Potiers) in Safi?
The Colline des Potiers sits at the northern end of the Safi medina, immediately below the Portuguese Château de Mer. On a map, look for the elevated area near the ramparts between Bab Chaabane and the seafront. It is about a 10-minute walk from the main souk or a short petit taxi ride from the bus station. There are no formal signs in English — ask for 'Derb des Fakhkharin' (the potters' quarter) or simply follow the smell of burning wood and the sound of clay wheels.
Can I take a pottery class in Safi Morocco?
Yes. Several studios on the Colline des Potiers offer informal hands-on sessions where a master or senior apprentice will teach you to centre clay and throw a basic form on the wheel. Sessions typically last 2–3 hours and cost indicatively 200–350 MAD per person. You'll produce a small piece, and if you want it glazed in the traditional blue-and-white Safi style it needs a second firing — some studios can ship finished pieces internationally, or you can arrange to collect on a second visit. Booking in advance through a local guide or your accommodation is advisable for a smooth experience.
How do I get to Safi from Marrakech or Essaouira?
From Marrakech, CTM and Supratours buses run several times daily and take roughly three hours; tickets cost around 80–120 MAD. The journey passes through olive groves and low scrubland before dropping to the coast — it is a pleasant ride. From Essaouira, grand taxis or shared minibuses cover the coastal road in about two hours for roughly 60–90 MAD. If you are travelling by car, the N1 highway connects all three cities along the Atlantic coast and the drive is straightforward. A private day trip from Marrakech, departing around 7:30 am, gives you a comfortable four to five hours in Safi before the return journey.
What other things can I see in Safi besides the pottery quarter?
Safi rewards a full day rather than a rushed half-day. The Château de Mer (Qasr al-Bahr), a squat Portuguese fortress right on the seafront, houses a small ceramics museum that puts the Colline des Potiers in historical context. The hilltop Kechla Citadel offers sweeping views over the medina and Atlantic. The medina itself — compact, largely tourist-free, and navigable without getting lost — has a copper-smiths' street and a lively spice souk. The fishing harbour is best visited early morning during the sardine auction, or you can simply eat grilled sardines at one of the portside grills for 25–40 MAD a plate.
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