Discovering...
Discovering...

How a dynasty of southern sherifs expelled the Portuguese, ended the Wattasid line, and turned Marrakech into one of the richest cities on earth — ending in one of history’s most extraordinary single-afternoon battles.
Leila Tazi· Fes, Culture & Cuisine Editor
Fes-based journalist with a food and crafts obsession, Leila spends her weeks between the tanneries, the Qarawiyyin quarter and the kitchens of the old city. She covers Fes, Meknes, food and Moroccan culture. Fes · 11+ years covering Morocco
Published 22 September 2025 Last updated 29 March 2026
Morocco’s 16th century is a story of a weakened northern dynasty collapsing under pressure from a dynamic southern one — and the moment of transition is pinned to 1578, when three kings died in a single afternoon on a muddy riverbank near the Atlantic coast. Most visitors to Marrakech walk past the Saadian Tombs or the ruins of El Badi Palace without knowing the violent, globe-shaping politics that produced them. This guide unpacks the full arc: who the Wattasids were, how the Saadians rose, what the Battle of the Three Kings actually decided, and what the golden age of Moulay Ahmed al-Mansur left behind.
Understanding this transition also explains why Marrakech — not Fes — became Morocco’s imperial showpiece in the 16th century, and why the country remained independent when virtually every neighbouring territory fell to Ottoman or European control. That independence was not accidental: it was won on a single afternoon at Wadi al-Makhazin.
Each phase reshaped who held power and where Morocco stood in the wider world.
c. 1472–1554
After the Marinid collapse, the Wattasids — regents-turned-sultans — ruled a weakened Morocco from Fes. They never controlled the south and spent decades fending off Portuguese coastal raids that seized Ceuta, Tangier, Asilah and Agadir. Their authority did not extend much beyond the northern plains, and the population increasingly looked elsewhere for leadership.
1510s–1540s
The Saadians emerged in the Sous Valley around Taroudant, claiming sharifian descent from the Prophet — a powerful legitimising tool in a society that venerated holy lineages. They expelled the Portuguese from Agadir in 1541, a feat the Wattasids had never managed. That single victory made them the credible defenders of Morocco. By 1554 the Saadian sultan Mohammed al-Sheikh had captured Fes and ended Wattasid rule permanently.
1578
Portugal’s King Sebastian I backed a deposed Saadian claimant in a bid to install a client ruler. At Wadi al-Makhazin (Alcácer Quibir), three kings died in a single afternoon: Sebastian drowned crossing the river in retreat, the deposed Moroccan claimant died of illness during the battle, and the reigning Saadian sultan Abd al-Malik expired of fever — but concealed his death until victory was secured. The battle destroyed Portugal’s young king, triggering the Iberian Union with Spain and leaving Morocco sovereign and undefeated.
1578–1603
The late sultan’s brother Ahmed inherited a kingdom flush with Portuguese ransom payments and soon added West African gold from a bold trans-Saharan campaign against the Songhai Empire (1591). He built the El Badi Palace in Marrakech — once studded with gold, marble and onyx — and the Saadian Tombs. Ambassadors arrived from Elizabeth I’s England and the Ottoman court. Marrakech briefly became one of the wealthiest cities on earth.
On paper, 4 August 1578 looked like a local dispute. Portugal’s young King Sebastian had bankrolled a deposed Moroccan prince, Abu Abdallah Mohammed II, to reclaim the Saadian throne. The reigning sultan, Abd al-Malik, was already dying of an unspecified illness when the armies met at the Wadi al-Makhazin river, near present-day Larache on the Moroccan Atlantic coast.
What unfolded was carnage and irony in equal measure. Sebastian had brought around 23,000 men including Portuguese nobility, Spanish volunteers and German mercenaries. The Saadian forces were larger and held the better ground. In the rout, Sebastian charged forward and was never seen alive again — his body was eventually recovered and ransomed. The puppet claimant died of illness during or just after the battle. And Abd al-Malik, the Saadian sultan, had actually died of fever shortly before the decisive moment: his advisors propped his corpse in the saddle and kept the death secret for hours, so his troops would not panic. Three kings, three deaths, one afternoon.
The consequences rippled across continents. Portugal, having lost its entire ruling line and much of its noble class, was absorbed by Spain two years later in the Iberian Union — a dynastic accident that redirected the Portuguese empire’s trajectory for 60 years. Morocco, by contrast, emerged stronger and flush with ransom cash: thousands of captured European nobles had to be bought back by their families at considerable cost.

The dead sultan’s younger brother Ahmed took power in 1578 and ruled for 25 years as al-Mansur al-Dhahabi — "the Victorious, the Golden." He earned both epithets. The Portuguese ransom payments filled the treasury immediately. Then, in 1591, he sent an army of around 4,000 men (many of them Andalusian Moors and Spanish renegades armed with firearms) south across the Sahara to destroy the Songhai Empire, the dominant power in the West African savannah. The campaign worked. Moroccan governors controlled Timbuktu and the trans-Saharan gold and salt trade for decades.
Back in Marrakech, al-Mansur built on a scale that stunned foreign visitors. The El Badi Palace ("the Incomparable") covered nearly 10 hectares, with a central pool 90 metres long, pavilions imported from Portugal as ransom settlements, and columns of Italian Carrara marble traded weight for weight against Moroccan sugar. The diplomatic traffic was extraordinary: Elizabeth I sent ambassadors, as did the Ottomans. The city’s population is estimated to have reached 80,000–100,000 at the dynasty’s height — comparable to London at the same period.
| Monument | What to know |
|---|---|
| Saadian Tombs, Marrakech | Royal mausoleum sealed by the Alaouites; rediscovered by French aerial photography in 1917 |
| El Badi Palace, Marrakech | Stripped of gold and marble by Moulay Ismail in the 1670s; ruins remain an evocative site |
| Ben Youssef Madrasa, Marrakech | Partly rebuilt under Saadian patronage; the finest example of Moroccan stucco-work open to visitors |
| Mouassine Mosque & Fountain | Built by Sultan Moulay Abdallah al-Ghalib in the 1560s in the heart of the Marrakech medina |
The Saadian Tombs and El Badi Palace are within easy walking distance of each other in the southern medina of Marrakech. Allow a combined two to three hours. Indicative entry fees as of 2026: Saadian Tombs ~70 MAD, El Badi Palace ~70 MAD. Neither requires advance booking, but mornings are quieter.
Morocco’s 16th century is remarkable for what did not happen. The Ottomans absorbed Algeria in 1516, Tunisia in 1574, and controlled Libya. Portugal held Ceuta, Melilla and a string of Atlantic ports. Morocco sat between two expanding empires and was, plausibly, next.
The Saadians navigated this by playing one power off against the other. They exchanged ambassadors and even opened trade negotiations with Elizabeth I — England and Morocco sharing a common enemy in Spain — while using Ottoman pressure as a justification for building a larger army. The sherif status of the Saadian rulers also complicated Ottoman annexation: the Ottomans could hardly absorb a dynasty that outranked their own sultan in religious genealogy. When the Battle of the Three Kings removed the Portuguese threat permanently, it also removed the pretext for an Ottoman protectorate.
The result was that Morocco entered the 17th century as the only part of North Africa to remain outside both European colonial and Ottoman imperial control — a status it would more or less maintain until the French Protectorate in 1912.
Most visitors spend two to three hours at the Saadian Tombs and El Badi Palace combined. The tombs are the more intact site — the three main chambers still carry their original stucco and carved cedarwood ceilings, and the central hall (Hall of Twelve Columns) gives a genuine sense of the dynasty’s aesthetic ambition. El Badi is more atmospheric than beautiful: the stripped walls and half-flooded sunken gardens are melancholy rather than grand, but the scale is staggering once you realise what stood here.
A private guided tour of Marrakech’s historic medina that covers Saadian history, the tanneries of the earlier period, and the Almoravid Koubba is the most efficient way to connect these monuments to their political context. Guides can show you the wall the Alaouites built to seal the Saadian Tombs — visible from the outside — which is the reason the interior survived nearly intact for three centuries.
The Wattasids were a Berber dynasty who started as regents to the weakening Marinid sultans before seizing power for themselves around 1472. They ruled primarily from Fes but never commanded the whole country — the south remained largely outside their reach. Constant Portuguese raids on the Atlantic coast further undermined their authority, and they left few lasting monuments. Their reign ended when the Saadian sultan Mohammed al-Sheikh captured Fes in 1554.
Fought at Wadi al-Makhazin (also called the Battle of Alcácer Quibir) on 4 August 1578, it was a confrontation between the Saadian sultan Abd al-Malik, a rival Moroccan claimant backed by Portugal, and King Sebastian I of Portugal himself. All three died on the same day — Sebastian drowned retreating across the river, the rival claimant died of illness, and the sultan expired of fever but kept it secret until the battle was won. The defeat wiped out Portugal’s ruling dynasty and most of its nobility, triggering the Spanish takeover of Portugal for 60 years.
The Saadians outmanoeuvred the Wattasids on two fronts. Militarily, they drove the Portuguese out of Agadir in 1541 — something the Wattasids had conspicuously failed to do — which gave them popular legitimacy as defenders of Islam. Politically, their claimed descent from the Prophet (sharif status) resonated deeply in a society where holy lineage conferred moral authority. After a series of campaigns through the 1540s and early 1550s, Sultan Mohammed al-Sheikh entered Fes in 1554 and the Wattasid era simply ended.
Al-Mansur — "the Victorious" — earned the epithet "al-Dhahabi" (the Golden) for two reasons: the enormous ransom payments he collected from Portuguese nobles captured at the Battle of the Three Kings, and the gold that flowed north after his army conquered the Songhai Empire across the Sahara in 1591. He used this wealth to build the El Badi Palace in Marrakech, decorated with Italian marble, Turkish onyx and gilded ceilings. Contemporary accounts describe it as the most magnificent palace in the Islamic world at the time.
The Saadians transformed Marrakech into a true imperial capital. Their most famous legacy is the Saadian Tombs — a royal mausoleum filled with intricate stucco and carved cedarwood, sealed by the Alaouite dynasty and only rediscovered in 1917. The El Badi Palace (now a grand ruin) once covered nearly 10 hectares with 360 rooms, fountains and an audience hall supported by Italian marble columns. The Ben Youssef Madrasa was also expanded under Saadian patronage. Entrance fees to the tombs and El Badi together run around 140 MAD (indicative) as of 2026.
Al-Mansur died in 1603 during a plague outbreak, and his three sons immediately went to war over the succession — fragmenting the kingdom for half a century. A new sharif family, the Alaouites from the Tafilalt oasis in the southeast, gradually unified Morocco under Moulay Rashid by the 1660s. The Alaouite dynasty has ruled ever since and includes today’s King Mohammed VI. Before the Alaouites consolidated power, they sealed the Saadian Tombs with a wall, which is why they were so well preserved when rediscovered centuries later.
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