At a women’s cooperative in the Souss, the process starts with the argan fruit itself — cracking the hard outer shell by hand to extract the kernels inside. This is painstaking work; it takes around 15 hours of hand-cracking to produce one litre of argan oil. The kernels for culinary use are dry-roasted in an open pan over low heat, stirred constantly until they turn the colour of hazelnuts and smell unmistakably of toasted nuts. Then they are cold-pressed on a stone mill.
The almonds — usually from local Souss orchards, where the climate suits them well — go through a similar roasting step, then are ground either on a hand-turned stone mill or a modern grinder into a paste. The texture is a choice: coarser grinds give amlou a satisfying crunch; smoother ones make it more spreadable. The argan oil and honey are added to the almond paste and worked in until everything is uniform. There are no preservatives, no emulsifiers, no added sugars beyond the honey.
In a household kitchen you can approximate this — roast almonds, blend, add argan oil and honey — and get something very good. What you probably cannot replicate is the quality of stone-milled oil from fruit collected that season. That version, eaten on msemen still warm from a griddle, is worth travelling for.