Beni Mellal City Guide

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   Ain Asserdoun Springs & Gardens

   Natural spring and gardens

   Springs that run down the mountainside through terraced gardens into the city. The name means "spring of the mule" in Amazigh. The water feeds channels and pools under fig trees, oleanders, pomegranates and old olive trees, and stone stairs link shaded terraces where families picnic and children paddle. At the top, the water comes straight out of the rock face, and you look out over Beni Mellal and the Tadla plain. The flow is strongest in spring, when wildflowers cover the slope.

   Price

   Free

   Time needed

   1.5-2.5 hours

   Best time

   Morning or late afternoon

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   Kasbah Ras el-Ain

   Historical fortress

   A fortress on a rocky spur above the Ain Asserdoun springs, also called Kasbah Bel Kush. Sultan Moulay Ismail built it in the 17th century as one of his chain of kasbahs, to control the way between the Tadla plain and the Atlas. It is partly restored: thick walls, watchtowers and arched gates still stand. From the ramparts you see the whole city below, the plain to the north in farms and olive groves, and the limestone wall of the Atlas behind. The springs rise directly underneath, and you can hear the water.

   Price

   Free

   Time needed

   1-1.5 hours

   Best time

   Morning

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   Bin el-Ouidane Dam & Lake

   Lake and outdoor recreation

   A reservoir about 50 km south of Beni Mellal, held back by an arch dam on the El Abid River. The dam was completed in 1953 and is 133 meters high. The lake winds for over 30 km through mountain valleys. People boat, kayak, swim and fish, and operators in the lakeside villages rent equipment. The road up from Beni Mellal through Afourer climbs in hairpins with wide views. Lakeside restaurants serve fish (from 60 MAD) and tagines.

   Price

   Free (boat rental from 100 MAD/hour)

   Time needed

   Half day - Full day

   Best time

   Morning for calm water

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   Beni Mellal Tuesday Souk

   Weekly market

   One of the largest weekly markets in central Morocco, where farmers, herders and traders from the Tadla plain and the Atlas villages come to sell. It is a working market, not a tourist one: heaps of olives (the region makes some of Morocco’s best olive oil), seasonal fruit and vegetables, spices, dried herbs, livestock, household goods, clothes and tools. Olives, olive oil, spices and handmade goods cost far less here than in Marrakech or Fes.

   Price

   Free (shopping budget from 50 MAD)

   Time needed

   2-3 hours

   Best time

   Tuesday morning (7 AM - 1 PM)

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   Cathedral Rock (Climbing)

   Rock climbing

   A limestone cliff near Beni Mellal with dozens of bolted routes from 5a to 7c overhangs, spread over several sectors. The rock is compact, with sharp holds and technical face climbing, and the routes look out over the Tadla plain and the Atlas foothills. Moroccan and foreign climbers come for the winter weather and the empty crags. Non-climbers can walk the trails along the foot of the cliffs, past limestone towers and caves.

   Price

   Free (guide from 300 MAD/day)

   Time needed

   Half day - Full day

   Best time

   Morning (cooler temperatures)

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   Ouzoud Falls (Cascades d'Ouzoud)

   Waterfall

   

   The falls drop 110 meters over red cliffs into a chain of pools in a canyon of olive groves (Ouzoud means "olives" in Amazigh), and the spray throws rainbows on sunny days. Barbary macaques live on the cliffs and in the valley and come close to visitors. Several viewpoints look across the falls, and a steep path goes down to the base, where you can swim and take a small boat (from 20 MAD) into the spray. The road from Beni Mellal via Azilal crosses Atlas country with Berber villages on the slopes.

   Distance

   110 km southwest (1.5-2 hours)

   Price

   From 10 MAD (park entry)

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   Azilal & Afourer

   Atlas mountain towns

   Afourer, 30 km south, is a market town where the mountains begin. Azilal, 80 km in, is the provincial capital and the way to Ouzoud Falls, the Ait Bouguemez valley (the "Happy Valley") and some of Morocco’s best trekking. The road from Beni Mellal to Azilal climbs over passes with views of snow on the peaks and down into river gorges. Both towns hold weekly souks: Afourer on Monday, Azilal on Thursday.

   Distance

   Afourer 30 km / Azilal 80 km

   Price

   From 20 MAD (grand taxi)

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   Olive Grove Excursion

   Agriculture

   The region is the centre of Moroccan olive oil. Groves cover the Tadla plain and climb into the foothills, mostly Picholine and Haouzia olives, pressed into anything from light cold-pressed oil to strong, peppery oil from traditional presses. In the harvest (November to January), families pick by hand and load donkeys for the presses. The rest of the year the groves are quiet places to walk, under trees that can be centuries old.

   Distance

   10-30 km around Beni Mellal

   Price

   Free

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   Olive oil and olive dishes From 30 MAD/liter (olive oil)

   Olive oil is the base of the local cooking, poured over salads and tagines alike. Try amlou (argan oil, almonds and honey), olive tagine with preserved lemon, and bread dipped in new oil at the market. The Tuesday souk has the widest choice, from small wrinkled oil olives to fat green table olives. Quality varies a lot: look for first cold-press (pression à froid).

   Tip Buy olive oil at the Tuesday souk directly from farmers, not in shops. Taste before buying. The best oil is slightly bitter and peppery, with a clean green color. From 30 MAD per liter from farms, compared to from 80-120 MAD in Marrakech tourist shops.

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   Mountain and plain cooking From 30 MAD

   Atlas cooking meets the produce of the Tadla plain. Tagines are simple and generous: lamb, chicken or beef with seasonal vegetables in olive oil. Friday couscous often comes with seven vegetables. From the Azilal side come tangia (meat slow-cooked in a clay jar), madfouna (stuffed bread, sometimes called Berber pizza) and river trout. On the street: lamb kebabs (from 15 MAD), harira (from 8 MAD) and sfenj doughnuts (from 2 MAD each).

   Tip The small restaurants around the central souk serve the most authentic food at the lowest prices. Try trid, a local dish of chicken and shredded msemen pastry in a rich sauce (from 35 MAD). Restaurants near Ain Asserdoun gardens serve good tagines with a view (from 50 MAD).

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   Cafes and tea From 6 MAD

   The main streets are lined with café terraces serving mint tea (from 6 MAD) and nous-nous (from 8 MAD). The cafés around Place de la Liberté are busiest, from morning coffee to evening tea. In summer, fresh orange juice costs from 5 MAD a large glass and avocado smoothies from 10 MAD. Pastries such as cornes de gazelle, briwat and chebakia start at 3 MAD a piece.

   Tip Join the locals at cafes near Place de la Liberte for the best people-watching. In summer, the fresh juice stands are an essential stop. Try jus panaché (a mixed fruit smoothie). Evening cafe life peaks after Maghrib prayer, when families walk through the city centre.

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   Getting there

   Beni Mellal has no airport; the nearest is Marrakech Menara (210 km). CTM and Supratours buses run from Marrakech (from 70 MAD, 3 hours), Casablanca (from 90 MAD, 3.5 hours), and Fes (from 100 MAD, 4 hours). Grand taxis connect to surrounding towns. By car, the city is on the N8 highway linking Marrakech to Fes via the interior route. The drive from Marrakech through the Tadla plain is flat and fast.
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   Getting around

   Beni Mellal city center is compact and walkable. Petit taxis (white with a green stripe) run within the city (from 5 MAD). Grand taxis are needed for Ain Asserdoun (from 10 MAD), Bin el-Ouidane (from 30 MAD per seat), and Ouzoud Falls (negotiate for the car). Having a car is highly recommended for exploring Bin el-Ouidane, Ouzoud, and the Atlas Mountains. Rental is available in the city from 300 MAD per day.
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   Best time to visit

   Spring (March to May) is best: waterfalls at full flow, wildflowers, and 20-28 degrees. Autumn (September to November) is also good. Summer is extremely hot on the Tadla plain (regularly above 40 degrees), but the mountains and Bin el-Ouidane are cooler. Winter is mild in the city (10-18 degrees) but cold at altitude, with possible snow on Atlas passes.
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   Safety and tips

   Beni Mellal is a safe, welcoming city that sees very few tourists. French and Darija are spoken; English is rare. Dress modestly, especially at the market. ATMs are available in the city center. Mountain roads to Bin el-Ouidane and beyond require careful driving with sharp bends. Cell phone coverage is limited in remote mountain areas. Bring cash for rural excursions as cards are not accepted outside the city.

2-day budget (per person, excluding accommodation)

Budget

From 300-500 MADPublic transport, street food, free attractions, city walks

Mid-range

From 600-1,200 MADTaxi day trips, restaurant meals, boat rental, market shopping

Comfort

From 1,500-2,500 MADPrivate car/guide, both day trips, restaurant dining, olive oil shopping