Discovering...
Discovering...

Blue walls and mountain lanes versus desert kasbahs and dune light — two completely different subjects, each extraordinary. Here is how to choose, or how to do both.
Omar Benali· Sahara & Southern Routes Editor
A former desert driver turned writer, Omar has guided and travelled the routes from Ouarzazate to Merzouga and Zagora for years. He writes about the Sahara, kasbah roads and the Draa and Dades valleys. Ouarzazate · 14+ years covering Morocco
Published 30 March 2026 Last updated 27 April 2026
Both destinations deserve a photographer’s full attention — but they reward completely different instincts. Chefchaouen is intimate and architectural: the Blue City’s rinsed walls, terracotta pots, and cat-filled staircases demand a portrait lens and patience. Ouarzazate and the surrounding landscape is cinematic in the literal sense — sweeping, amber-lit, built for the wide frame and the long telephoto compression of dune ridges receding to the horizon.
The honest answer to "which should I visit?" is: it depends on the kind of photographer you are. If you shoot street, colour, and geometry, Chefchaouen is the stronger case. If your portfolio skews toward landscapes, ancient monuments, and raw desert light, Ouarzazate — and the Merzouga dunes a few hours further east — will fill your memory card in ways the Blue City simply cannot.
What follows is a practical breakdown: the subjects each city offers, the logistical realities, and the timing that separates a strong frame from a generic one. Both are worth the detour. Neither should be rushed.
Chefchaouen is not overhyped — it is mistimed. Arrive at dawn and you have one of the most consistently photogenic medinas in the world; arrive at 10 am in August and you have a crowded selfie queue.
The medina sits inside a narrow valley in the Rif Mountains, which means it faces east and catches directional light in the early morning before the sun clears the ridgeline. The single best window is roughly 45 minutes after sunrise: the walls glow a deep cobalt, the lanes are empty, and the cats — of which Chefchaouen has many — are at their most cooperative. By 9 am the first tour buses are unloading and the alleyways near Place Uta el-Hammam fill quickly.
The blue is not uniform, which is part of the appeal. Walk five minutes from the main plaza and you find variations — violet-blue, powder blue, teal, pale cerulean — depending on the age of the paint and the time of year. The medina was painted blue by Jewish refugees in the 1930s, though the tradition has been enthusiastically maintained (and expanded) since. The Spanish Mosque above the town offers a wide view of the red-roofed medina against forested hills — worth the 20-minute uphill walk before breakfast.
What Chefchaouen lacks is variety beyond its walls. The town itself is the subject. Once you have spent two or three purposeful early mornings inside the medina, you have broadly covered what it offers photographically. The surrounding Rif countryside is beautiful but rarely visited on a typical photography itinerary.
Minimum stay for photography: 2 nights (to cover two dawn sessions). One day is not enough to see it properly, let alone photograph it.
Ouarzazate itself is a sprawling modern town — the photographic rewards are in what surrounds it. Head out in any direction and the landscape immediately becomes extraordinary.

Aït Benhaddou, 30 km northwest of Ouarzazate, is the centrepiece. The earthen ksar — a UNESCO World Heritage site — rises from the bank of the Ounila River in a stack of pale pisé towers that change colour dramatically through the day: warm rust at dawn, bleached ochre at noon, glowing amber at sunset. The road climbs slightly from the parking area to the ksar itself; from the opposite bank of the river you get the classic full-width composition, while the interior of the ksar (accessed by crossing the river) reveals narrow lanes, crumbling towers, and detail shots of carved earthen walls.
The Draa Valley, running south from Agdz toward Zagora, is one of the least-visited but most photographically rich landscapes in the country: 200 km of date palms, pink mud-brick ksour, and flat desert oases that seem unchanged for centuries. The light here in the late afternoon turns the palm fronds silver and the mud walls deep copper.
Further east, the Merzouga dunes at Erg Chebbi (indicatively 4–4.5 hours from Ouarzazate) are the obvious destination for dune photography. Sunrise is the definitive session: the oblique light throws long shadows across every ripple in the sand, creating natural patterns that no studio could replicate. A private guide with a 4x4 can position you at the crest of a dune well before the first camel-trek groups arrive.
Minimum stay for photography: 3 nights based in Ouarzazate — one day for Aït Benhaddou, one day for the Draa Valley, one day for Dades or Todra gorge excursions. Merzouga dunes require a separate overnight.
A quick-reference breakdown for photographers deciding how to allocate their time.
| Aspect | Chefchaouen | Ouarzazate region |
|---|---|---|
| Core visual | Blue-painted walls, doorways, cats | Kasbahs, dunes, cinematic desert light |
| Best light window | Dawn to 9 am; late afternoon | Sunrise at Erg Chebbi; magic hour over Aït Benhaddou |
| Street photography | Excellent — narrow medina lanes | Limited in town; best at Draa Valley villages |
| Landscape photography | Limited (mountain views from Spanish Mosque) | Exceptional — dunes, gorges, oases |
| Crowd factor (peak season) | High — very crowded 9 am–5 pm | Moderate — easier to find solitude |
| Gear requirements | Wide angle, 50mm prime | Wide angle, telephoto for dunes, dust protection |
| Getting there | Fes–Chefchaouen bus (4 hrs) or private transfer | Marrakech–Ouarzazate drive (3.5 hrs, mountain road) |
| Best combined with | Fes, Tangier, northern Morocco loop | Sahara desert tour, Dades & Todra gorges |
Season matters more for Chefchaouen than Ouarzazate; for desert photography, the same rules apply either way.
For street and architectural photographers: Chefchaouen is the clear priority. Plan two nights minimum, rise before 6 am, and explore with no agenda — the best frames come from getting pleasantly lost in the upper medina lanes.
For landscape and documentary photographers: Ouarzazate and the desert southeast give you a week of material without repeating a single subject. A private vehicle with a local guide who knows light windows at each location is genuinely worth the cost.
For photographers who want both: a 10–12 day itinerary can cover northern Morocco (Chefchaouen, Fes) and the south (Marrakech, Ouarzazate, Merzouga) without feeling rushed, provided you travel by private car rather than shared transport.
Partly, yes — but only if you arrive mid-morning in July. The Blue City photographs beautifully in the hour after dawn, when the lanes fill with soft directional light and almost nobody else is around. By 9 am in high season the main stairways and Uta el-Hammam square are packed with tour groups. If you stay overnight (rather than day-tripping from Fes), you get the magic light without the crowds. The blue itself is real and distinctive; it is the timing that separates a cliché shot from a genuine one.
The hour after sunrise is the single best window. The medina faces east, so light pours into the upper alleys early before the sun climbs above the rooftops. A second window opens around 4–5 pm when the sun drops toward the Rif ridge and throws long warm shadows across the blue walls. Midday is the worst time — harsh overhead light, bleached colour, and maximum tourist density. Book a riad inside the medina so you can be out with your camera before the day-trippers arrive by bus.
Yes, but they are at opposite ends of the country so you need at least 10 days to do both justice. A practical routing is: Marrakech → Ouarzazate (and Aït Benhaddou / dunes) → Fes → Chefchaouen → Tangier or back to Casablanca. Alternatively, fly into Casablanca, head north to Chefchaouen, loop south through Fes and Marrakech to Ouarzazate, then fly home. A private car or guided private tour makes the logistics far simpler than piecing together buses on these routes.
Absolutely. The CLA Studios connection (Lawrence of Arabia, Gladiator, Game of Thrones) is fun context but not the main draw. The real rewards are Aït Benhaddou — a UNESCO earthen ksar with one of the most photogenic silhouettes in Africa — the extraordinary Draa Valley palmeries stretching south toward Zagora, and proximity to the Erg Chebbi dunes at Merzouga (roughly a 4-hour drive east). If you are a landscape or travel photographer, the quality of light over red pisé walls and golden desert is exceptional. Film history is a bonus.
Dust protection is non-negotiable: bring sealed plastic bags or a dry bag to protect your body and lenses when the wind picks up, and a lens cloth you can reach quickly. For dune photography a wide-angle lens (16–24mm equivalent) captures scale, while a short telephoto (85–135mm) compresses the ridgeline patterns beautifully. A tripod is essential for blue-hour and Milky Way shots — the absence of light pollution near Merzouga is extraordinary. If you are riding a camel into the dunes, keep the camera in a padded hip bag rather than hanging round your neck.
Chefchaouen edges it for pure street photography in the medina, because the scale is human and the walls provide consistent, beautiful backgrounds that you can compose against with ease. However, Fes El-Bali is arguably the richer subject: it is a living, working medieval city where tanneries, brass-beaters, bread ovens, and mule carts coexist within metres of each other. If street photography is your primary goal, budget at least two days in the Fes medina; Chefchaouen is more portrait-friendly and architecturally consistent, which suits certain styles better.
Neither city legally requires one, but both benefit from local knowledge. In Chefchaouen a guide can unlock residential alleys and rooftops that Instagram coordinates will never show you, and can navigate the social etiquette around photographing residents (always ask first). In Ouarzazate and at Aït Benhaddou, a guide who knows the ksar can take you to the upper citadel before group tours arrive and suggest angles that avoid scaffold, tour buses, and souvenir stalls in the foreground. A photography-focused private tour is the most efficient option for serious shooters.
Plan it with a local expert
Crafting extraordinary journeys through Morocco's timeless landscapes. 100% private journeys, handcrafted around you.
from $2,054Essential Morocco: Imperial Cities Circuit
from $5,978Sahara to Sea: Morocco Complete