3 Days in Marrakech

8:30 AM: Bahia Palace

Start your Marrakech exploration at the Bahia Palace (70 MAD / $7), a 19th-century masterpiece built for Si Moussa, the grand vizier. Wander through 8,000 square meters of intricately tiled rooms, painted cedar ceilings, and tranquil courtyards planted with jasmine and orange trees. Arrive at opening to avoid crowds. Allow 1-1.5 hours.

10:00 AM: Souk Exploration

Plunge into the labyrinthine souks stretching north from Jemaa el-Fnaa. Each section specializes in different crafts: Souk Smarine (textiles), Souk des Babouches (leather slippers), Souk Haddadine (metalwork), and Souk des Teinturiers (dyed fabrics). Haggling is expected -- start at one-third of the asking price and negotiate from there. A guided souk tour costs 200-400 MAD ($20-40) for 2 hours and is invaluable for first-timers.

12:00 PM: Ben Youssef Medersa

Visit this 14th-century Islamic college, one of the largest in North Africa. The courtyard features an extraordinary central basin surrounded by carved stucco, zellige tiles, and cedar lattice screens. Re-opened after extensive renovation, entry is 50 MAD ($5). This is one of the most photogenic buildings in all of Morocco.

1:30 PM: Lunch at a Medina Riad

Escape the medina bustle at Le Jardin (120-200 MAD / $12-20), a hidden garden restaurant in the heart of the souks. Or try Nomad (150-250 MAD / $15-25) for modern Moroccan cuisine with rooftop terrace views. Budget option: Souk Cafe for a tagine (50-80 MAD / $5-8).

3:00 PM: Hammam Experience

Unwind in a traditional Moroccan hammam (steam bath). The Heritage Spa at La Mamounia offers a premium experience (800-1,200 MAD / $80-120). Mid-range: Les Bains de Marrakech (400-600 MAD / $40-60). Budget: public Hammam Dar el-Bacha (15-30 MAD / $1.50-3) -- bring your own soap and towel.

6:00 PM: Jemaa el-Fnaa at Sunset

As the sun begins to set, head to Africa's most famous square. Watch as it transforms from a daytime market into an open-air spectacle of snake charmers, Gnaoua musicians, henna artists, acrobats, and storytellers. Grab a fresh orange juice from the stalls (5 MAD / $0.50). Then climb to the terrace of Cafe de France or Grand Balcon du Cafe Glacier for the best rooftop views over the chaos below (25-40 MAD for a drink).

8:00 PM: Dinner on the Square

For an authentic experience, eat at the food stalls on Jemaa el-Fnaa itself. Stall #1 and #14 are perennial favorites. A full meal of grilled meats, salads, bread, and a drink costs 30-60 MAD ($3-6). For a more refined evening, book dinner at Dar Yacout (500-800 MAD / $50-80) -- a palatial restaurant with multi-course Moroccan feasts.

8:00 AM: Jardin Majorelle

Be at the gate when it opens at 8:00 AM to enjoy the garden in peaceful solitude. Created by French painter Jacques Majorelle in the 1920s and later restored by Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Berge, the garden features over 300 species of plants, cobalt-blue buildings, and a Berber museum. Entry: 70 MAD ($7) for the garden, additional 30 MAD ($3) for the Berber Museum. Allow 1.5 hours.

10:00 AM: Yves Saint Laurent Museum

Right next to the garden, this striking terracotta-and-brick museum (100 MAD / $10) houses a permanent collection of YSL's most iconic designs, including the Mondrian dresses and le smoking tuxedo suits. The building itself, designed by Studio KO, is an architectural gem. The on-site cafe serves excellent coffee and pastries. Allow 1-1.5 hours.

12:00 PM: Gueliz Lunch & Exploration

Wander through the Ville Nouvelle neighborhood of Gueliz, Marrakech's modern quarter with Art Deco architecture, contemporary galleries, and chic cafes. Lunch at Amal Women's Training Center (70-120 MAD / $7-12) -- a social enterprise serving excellent Moroccan food while training disadvantaged women. Or try Grand Cafe de la Poste (150-250 MAD / $15-25) for French-Moroccan brasserie fare in a beautifully restored 1920s post office.

3:00 PM: Cooking Class

The highlight of day two: a Moroccan cooking class. Most classes (3-4 hours) begin with a guided trip to the spice market to buy ingredients, then return to a riad kitchen to prepare a full Moroccan meal -- typically tagine, couscous, Moroccan salads, and pastilla. You eat what you cook at the end. La Maison Arabe cooking workshop: 600-900 MAD ($60-90). Amal Center: 450 MAD ($45). Souk Cuisine: 500 MAD ($50).

8:00 PM: Rooftop Evening

After your cooking class dinner, enjoy a nightcap on a rooftop bar. El Fenn's rooftop is one of the best -- cocktails cost 80-120 MAD ($8-12) with views over the medina and Atlas Mountains in the distance. Or head to the Kabana rooftop at the Kabana Club for live music and cocktails.