Discovering...
Discovering...

One of the medina's most singular sights — centuries-old dyeing pits, artisan workshops you can walk into, and the best leather shopping in Morocco. Here is exactly how to do it well.
Yasmine El Amrani· Marrakech & Atlas Editor
Marrakech-born travel writer who has spent the last decade walking the medina’s souks and the High Atlas trails above Imlil. She covers the Red City, Berber villages and day trips into the mountains. Marrakech · 12+ years covering Morocco
Published 29 October 2024 Last updated 7 March 2026
The Marrakech tannery is one of those places that stops you mid-stride. Stepping onto an overlook terrace and seeing the circular stone pits below — some filled with brilliant saffron dye, others deep poppy red, others a murky fermentation bath of pigeon dung and water — is genuinely arresting. It is also a working industrial site, not a heritage museum, and that distinction matters: the men treading hides in the vats are not there for your camera, they are producing leather that ends up in the shops surrounding you.
Marrakech's tannery is smaller and quieter than the famous Chouara tannery in Fes, which makes it more accessible — you can take it in at your own pace rather than jostling through a crowd. The surrounding Souk Cherratine is also one of the better places in Morocco to buy finished leather goods directly from the workshops that produce them, if you go in knowing what to look for.
This guide covers exactly where to find it, what to expect from arrival to exit, how to read the quality of what you are buying, and where a private guided tour adds genuine value beyond what you can discover solo.
Time needed
1 – 2 hours
Entry cost
Free (via shop terraces)
Location
Souk Cherratine, north medina
Most visitors spend 45–90 minutes here. This is the sequence, step by step.
The main approach runs through Souk Cherratine, just northeast of the Ben Youssef Mosque. You will smell the tannery before you see it — a mixture of pigeon dung (used to soften the hides), natural dyes, and raw leather. The scent is strong but not unbearable; many shops hand you a sprig of mint to hold under your nose.
The tannery itself is best viewed from above. Dozens of leather shops around the pits offer free access to their upper terraces in exchange for a walk-through their showroom on the way out — this is standard practice, not a scam. You get a genuine bird's-eye view of the circular stone pits filled with saffron yellow, poppy red, indigo blue, and earthy brown dye. Aim for the morning (9–11 am) when workers are most active and the colours are brightest.
Workers stand waist-deep in the pits, treading hides to work the dye through. The whole process — soaking, scraping, dyeing, drying — takes days per batch. You will see hides stretched flat on nearby rooftops to dry in the sun. The tannery has operated in this district for over a thousand years and the methods have barely changed.
After the terrace, the alleys around the pits are lined with small workshops where you can watch artisans cutting, stitching, and hand-finishing bags, belts, babouche slippers, and jackets. Some workshops welcome visitors to try a tool or two — particularly those with guided craft-tour arrangements. This is where the browsing becomes genuinely engaging rather than just transactional.
The surrounding shops sell finished goods at every quality tier. Prices are almost always negotiable; expect to pay 150–400 MAD (roughly $15–40 indicative) for quality babouche slippers, 300–800 MAD for a belt, and 800–2,500 MAD for a medium shoulder bag, depending on leather grade and craftsmanship. Walk in knowing what you want, compare across two or three shops before committing, and do not feel obliged to buy after using a terrace.

The workshops around the pits produce babouche slippers, belts, bags and jackets — all available to buy directly.
Both are genuine working tanneries with centuries of history. The answer depends on where you are in Morocco and what kind of experience you want.
| Aspect | Marrakech | Fes (Chouara) |
|---|---|---|
| Scale | Smaller — easier to take in quickly | Chouara tannery is much larger, more dramatic from above |
| Crowds | Less tourist traffic — quieter terraces | Very popular; can feel rushed in high season |
| Authenticity | Still commercially active; smaller operation | Oldest continuously operating tannery in the world |
| Shopping | Good selection, slightly lower pressure selling | Enormous range but heavy guide commission culture |
| Accessibility | Easier to navigate alone from Jemaa el-Fna | Medina is more complex; guide usually essential |
If you are visiting both cities, both tanneries are worth your time — the scale difference makes them complementary rather than repetitive.
Weekday mornings between 9 and 11 am — workers are most active and natural light hits the pits directly.
The pigeon-dung tanning solution is pungent. Shops provide mint sprigs. It fades within minutes once you step back.
Free terrace access always comes with a shop walkthrough. You are under zero obligation to buy. A polite "shukran, la" (thank you, no) is enough.
Genuine leather feels supple and has a faint natural smell. Very cheap goods may be split leather or faux. Ask to see the back of the hide.
From Jemaa el-Fna, head north through the souks toward Ben Youssef Mosque. Allow 20–25 minutes on foot through the medina.
Opening offers are typically two to three times the expected price. A counter-offer of 50–60% is reasonable; expect to settle around 65–70%.
Visiting the tannery independently is entirely doable — you follow your nose, find a terrace shop, and browse the surrounding alleys. But there are layers you miss without someone who knows the district. The best artisan workshops are tucked into alleys that do not obviously connect to the main tourist circuit. A guide who has relationships with specific craftspeople can get you into ateliers that are not open to passing strangers, and can translate conversations with the leatherworkers themselves.
The other practical advantage is the shopping. Knowing what a fair price looks like, what grade of leather you are looking at, and which shops cut corners on dye quality makes a real difference to whether you walk away with something that will last or something that will peel after three months. An experienced guide gives you that reference point without making the whole experience feel transactional.
Private medina artisan tours that include the tannery district work well as a half-day experience, often combined with the Ben Youssef Mosque, the medersa, and the spice souk. If you want that combination arranged as a seamless private tour, the team below can put it together.
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Marrakech’s main leather tannery sits in the northeastern quarter of the medina, clustered around Souk Cherratine near the Ben Youssef Mosque. It is roughly a 20–25 minute walk north from Jemaa el-Fna through the souks, or about five minutes from the Ben Youssef Mosque. The tannery is not signposted as a tourist attraction — you navigate by smell and by following the leather-goods shops that multiply as you get close.
Yes. The dyeing pits are visible from terraces above the surrounding leather shops. Workers stand in the circular stone vats, treading hides to work natural dyes — saffron yellow, poppy red, indigo blue — through the leather. Activity peaks in the morning. The best viewing is free but accessed through shop terraces, which expect you to walk through their showroom. You are not required to buy anything.
Several small workshops in the alleys around the tannery welcome visitors informally, especially those with guide relationships. You can watch artisans cutting and hand-stitching babouche slippers, bags, and belts. For a more structured workshop experience — where you actually handle tools and take part in the craft — it is worth arranging a guided medina artisan tour in advance, as independent access to working ateliers is inconsistent.
Fes' Chouara tannery is significantly larger, more famous, and far more visited — it’s often cited as the world’s oldest continuously operating tannery. Marrakech’s tannery is smaller and quieter, which makes it easier to take in at your own pace without feeling rushed. The dyeing process is the same in both cities. Marrakech is a better choice if you want a less-crowded first encounter; Fes is unmissable if you are visiting that city and want the definitive scale.
You don’t need one to find it or view it — it is walkable from the central souks and the terrace access is self-service via the surrounding shops. That said, a guide helps you navigate the more interesting workshop alleys that are not on the obvious tourist path, negotiate without awkwardness, and understand what you are watching. If you want to go beyond viewing to actually engaging with artisans in their workshops, a private medina tour is worth the investment.
The key is to browse several shops before buying, avoid purchasing from the first place you enter, and know your reference prices going in — 150–400 MAD for babouche slippers, 800–2,500 MAD for a good shoulder bag (all indicative). Squeeze the leather: quality product feels supple and slightly warm; very stiff or plasticky goods may be split leather or synthetic. Be wary of anyone who volunteers to "guide" you to the best shop, as this typically means the shop is paying a commission that inflates prices.
Most visitors spend 45 minutes to 90 minutes in the tannery district — around 20 minutes watching from a terrace and the rest browsing workshops and shops. If you are serious about buying leather or want to explore the full Souk Cherratine circuit, allow two hours. Combined with a broader medina walk through the Ben Youssef Mosque and the souks, you can easily fill a half-day.