Discovering...
Discovering...

Heat, crowds, temperatures and exactly what to pack — so you arrive at Erg Chebbi prepared, not surprised.
Omar Benali· Sahara & Southern Routes Editor
A former desert driver turned writer, Omar has guided and travelled the routes from Ouarzazate to Merzouga and Zagora for years. He writes about the Sahara, kasbah roads and the Draa and Dades valleys. Ouarzazate · 14+ years covering Morocco
Published 5 February 2025 Last updated 11 May 2026
October and November are the months when the Moroccan Sahara finally becomes what most travellers imagined it would be. The punishing summer heat retreats, the dunes empty out, and you can actually enjoy a camel trek without feeling like you are being slow-roasted. Sunsets hit the sand at a low angle that turns Erg Chebbi a deep amber, and the night sky — once the camp fires are out — is the clearest you will see anywhere in North Africa.
The two months are not identical, though. Early October still carries the tail-end of summer heat, with midday temperatures near Merzouga pushing 35–38 °C. By late October that drops to the high twenties, and by mid-November the days are genuinely pleasant at 22–26 °C while nights can fall to single digits. That 20 °C daily swing catches a lot of travellers off-guard, particularly those who packed only for the daytime photo they saw on Instagram.
Below is everything that actually matters: a month-by-month temperature breakdown, a crowd calendar, a specific packing list, and answers to the questions most frequently asked before a desert trip in autumn.
Merzouga (Erg Chebbi) indicative figures — actual nights can be 2–4 °C colder at altitude sections on the road south.
| Period | Day high | Night low | Crowds | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Early October | 33–38 °C | 14–18 °C | Low–medium (post-summer) | Still warm midday; very pleasant mornings and evenings. Camel treks best done at dusk. |
| Late October | 28–33 °C | 10–14 °C | Medium (school holidays) | Peak photography light. Comfortable midday walking. Nights need a jacket. |
| Early November | 24–28 °C | 8–12 °C | Low | Arguably the best window — warm days, few crowds, spectacular star-gazing nights. |
| Late November | 18–23 °C | 4–8 °C | Very low | Noticeably cooler; bring a warm sleeping layer. Dunes virtually empty midweek. |
All figures are indicative and based on recent seasonal averages. Sandstorm events (chergui winds) are rare in autumn but possible — they typically pass within a few hours.
October days in the Sahara feel hotter than the thermometer suggests because the desert reflects heat from every surface and there is no shade between you and the horizon. A 34 °C October day in Merzouga feels more like 40 °C in a city. That said, the sun angle is lower than in summer, so mornings (before 10 a.m.) and late afternoons (after 4 p.m.) are genuinely comfortable — even enjoyable.
Smart operators time camel treks to coincide with the golden hour. If you are booking privately you can insist on a 4:30–5 p.m. departure, which gets you to the high dune crest for sunset without walking in the worst heat. The return after dark — guided by lantern or torch — is cooler and often more atmospheric.
November nights can drop to 4–6 °C at Erg Chebbi — cold enough that sitting outside the tent in shorts watching the stars becomes uncomfortable within minutes. Desert camps provide wool blankets, and most mid-range and luxury camps have enclosed heated tents or Berber tent walls that block wind effectively. Still, the walk to the dune crest for a midnight star session requires real layers.
In October, nights are milder (10–16 °C) but the temperature still drops faster than you expect once the sun sets. The rule of thumb: whatever you think you need at night, add one more layer.
October is busier than November — specifically the middle two weeks, when French and Spanish school half-terms align. The better standard camps at Erg Chebbi (the ones with proper beds rather than mats) fill up on those weekends. Luxury camps with private ensuite tents book out weeks in advance for mid-October.
November is quieter. You will sometimes have a whole section of dune to yourself for sunrise. Midweek departures are almost always easy to arrange on short notice, and operators are more willing to negotiate on private tours since group departures thin out. If your dates are flexible, the first two weeks of November — before the start of the French Toussaint holidays — offer the best combination of good weather and low crowds.

Night temperatures at camp can fall below 8 °C in November — layers are not optional.
The desert demands two wardrobes in one bag. Solve it with lightweight layers that stack.
Watch out for: camera condensation
Moving a camera from a cold tent (8 °C) to the warm outside air (20 °C sunrise) causes lens fog. Keep your camera inside your jacket until fully awake. A silica gel sachet in the camera bag fixes the problem overnight.
Merzouga is roughly 560 km from Marrakech (8–9 hours by road via the Tizi n’Tichka pass and Ouarzazate) and about 340 km from Fes (5–6 hours south). There is no passenger train; your options are:
Private guided tour (recommended)
Door-to-door from Marrakech or Fes, with overnight stays en route in Dades Valley. From ~2,500 MAD per person (indicative, based on two travellers sharing a vehicle). The tour includes all driving, accommodation and the camel trek.
CTM / Supratours long-distance bus
Marrakech → Errachidia (~9 hours, from ~160 MAD). Onward transport to Merzouga requires a taxi (40–80 MAD, shared, from Rissani). Slowest option but cheapest for solo backpackers.
Shared taxi from Rissani
The market town of Rissani is 22 km from Merzouga. A shared grand taxi runs when full (4–6 passengers), typically 15–20 MAD per seat. A private taxi is ~80–120 MAD.
Autumn is also when the road south of Tinghir sees occasional short-lived flooding after unseasonal rain — rare but worth checking locally before you depart. Private drivers know the alternative routes. A solo bus traveller does not.
October is one of the two best months — the other being March. Summer heat has broken by mid-October, so daytime temperatures in Merzouga are typically 28–35 °C rather than the punishing 45+ °C of July. Sunsets are particularly vivid, the air is clear, and the dunes are quiet enough that you can walk away from the camp and hear nothing but wind. The only caveat is early October, when midday can still feel very hot. Time your camel trek for after 4 p.m. and you will be fine.
Daytime highs in Merzouga during November run from roughly 24 °C in late November to 28 °C in early November — comfortable enough to walk in the dunes at any hour. That is a significant step down from October. What surprises most visitors is the midday sun still feels intense even at these temperatures because there is zero shade in the dunes. Apply sunscreen regardless of how cool the air feels. By late November, some people find the midday hours genuinely pleasant for a long dune walk.
Pack in layers: lightweight, sun-protective clothing for the day (a long-sleeve linen shirt works better than a T-shirt because it also keeps sand off), and a fleece or light down jacket for the evening. Temperatures can drop 20 °C between midday and midnight, so the swing is larger than most travellers expect. A scarf doubles as sun protection and a sand shield if a breeze picks up during the camel trek. Closed-toe shoes are better than sandals — sand gets hot and shifting dune surfaces make ankles work hard.
October sits in what operators call "shoulder peak." European school holidays in mid-to-late October bring a noticeable increase in families, and some French and Spanish half-term weeks can fill the better Erg Chebbi camps. Book your preferred camp at least three to four weeks ahead if you are travelling in the second or third week of October. Early October and the first half of November are quieter, and you may find last-minute availability at mid-range camps — but the standard camp might not have the same ambience as a well-run luxury one. Private tours let you choose your camp tier and guarantee your bunk.
Night-time temperatures in Merzouga in November typically fall between 4 °C and 12 °C, with the coldest nights at the end of the month occasionally approaching 2 °C. Desert camps provide heavy woollen blankets, but if you run cold or are travelling in late November, bring a lightweight sleeping bag liner or a packable down jacket to sleep in. The transition happens fast: it is warm at sunset, cool by 9 p.m., and can be genuinely cold by 3 a.m. Star-gazing is most comfortable in a sleeping bag or wrapped in a blanket on the dune.
Late October is arguably the single best week of the year for Erg Chebbi. Temperatures are comfortable all day, the light is golden and low (excellent for dune photography), and the post-summer crowds have thinned. Night skies are often clearer than in summer because humidity drops after the last Atlantic weather systems of early autumn. If you can time your trip for the last week of October or the first week of November, you hit the sweet spot before winter prices arrive and camps thin out for the low season.
Yes, and autumn is ideal for it. A private 3- or 4-day tour from Marrakech can include the Draa Valley and Zagora oasis on the way south before continuing east to Erg Chebbi — or reverse the route heading north toward Fes. Temperatures across both desert zones are similar in October–November, so there is no compromise. The palm groves of Tinghir and the Draa date palms look their best in autumn light, and the roads are clear. Indicative pricing for a 4-day private tour covering both zones runs from around 3,500–6,000 MAD per person depending on group size.
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