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Discovering...

October to February brings the driest air, longest nights and darkest skies over Erg Chebbi. Here is the month-by-month breakdown — temperatures, moon phases and what to expect at camp.
Omar Benali· Sahara & Southern Routes Editor
A former desert driver turned writer, Omar has guided and travelled the routes from Ouarzazate to Merzouga and Zagora for years. He writes about the Sahara, kasbah roads and the Draa and Dades valleys. Ouarzazate · 14+ years covering Morocco
Published 10 March 2026 Last updated 7 April 2026
The short answer: October through February is when the Moroccan Sahara earns its reputation as one of Africa’s finest stargazing locations. The Erg Chebbi dunes near Merzouga sit at roughly 960 metres elevation, far from meaningful light pollution, and winter air here is astonishingly dry — humidity can drop below 10% on clear nights, which is what pushes the seeing quality into the extraordinary range.
That said, the sky over Merzouga is never truly bad. Even in August, when daytime temperatures crest 44°C and you would not want to linger outside, the Milky Way blazes overhead from dusk. The real question is not whether you will see stars — it is whether the experience will be comfortable enough to stay awake for them. This guide breaks that down month by month, then covers everything else: moon phases, camp quality, cold-night logistics and the best way to organise the trip.
Ratings assume a new-moon or near-new-moon night. Add one star for July–August transparency; subtract two stars for a full moon in any month.
| Month | Night / Day temp | Cloud cover | Sky quality | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Jan | −2 / 17°C | Very low | Peak clarity; bone-dry air. Nights bitterly cold — pack a proper sleeping bag. | |
| Feb | 0 / 20°C | Very low | Still excellent. Slight warming; good for astrophotography without extreme cold. | |
| Mar | 5 / 24°C | Low | Good skies but occasional dust (chergui wind). Milky Way core rising pre-dawn. | |
| Apr | 10 / 29°C | Low | Comfortable nights. Spring chergui can haze the horizon but zenith stays clear. | |
| May | 14 / 34°C | Low–Moderate | Rising heat; Milky Way core rises earlier after midnight. Transition month. | |
| Jun | 20 / 40°C | Very low | Exceptionally transparent air, but 40°C days mean hot nights. Not ideal for sleeping outside. | |
| Jul | 23 / 44°C | Very low | Technically clear but extreme heat makes overnight stays uncomfortable. | |
| Aug | 22 / 43°C | Very low | Same as July. The sky is brilliant but the heat is relentless. | |
| Sep | 16 / 38°C | Low | Nights start cooling. Milky Way still well-placed until midnight. | |
| Oct | 10 / 32°C | Low | Sweet-spot month — warm days, cool nights, excellent transparency. | |
| Nov | 4 / 25°C | Very low | Outstanding. Cold but not brutal; winter constellations rising. Quiet season. | |
| Dec | 1 / 20°C | Very low | Orion overhead, Milky Way in the west at dusk. Frosty but unforgettable. |
Three things conspire in winter to make the Erg Chebbi sky exceptional. First, the air is cold, and cold air holds less water vapour — even trace humidity blurs the contrast between stars and the dark sky behind them. Second, the chergui, the hot easterly desert wind that pushes dust into the atmosphere, is largely dormant between November and February. Third, long nights — dusk around 6 pm, dawn around 7 am — give you thirteen hours of darkness to play with.
The cost is cold. A December night at Merzouga drops to around 0°C by 3 am. Most travellers are pleasantly surprised the first hour — the cold keeps you sharp and the sky demands attention — but by midnight, if you are not properly dressed, you retreat inside. The fix is straightforward: a 0°C sleeping bag, a good down jacket, gloves and a hat. Luxury desert camps typically supply heavier bedding; standard camps often do not, so bring your own.
November and October are the forgiving middle ground. Temperatures are cold enough to clear the air but not brutal — lows of 4–10°C rather than freezing. These months also coincide with the quiet shoulder season, so the dunes are less crowded and camp operators are more flexible on timing.
A full moon in January is far worse for stargazing than a new moon in May. Always check the lunar calendar and aim for the four to five nights either side of new moon. Most operators can adjust your dates by a day or two if you ask.
Arrive at your Merzouga camp just before sunset. After dinner — usually a tagine or grilled meat eaten around a communal fire pit — the last ambient light fades around 8 pm in winter. That first proper look upward stops most people mid-sentence. The dunes kill the horizon glow entirely to the east and south; to the north and west you can make out the faintest orange smear from Rissani, but it does not compete with the sky.
The Milky Way in winter runs north to south through Orion, Auriga and Perseus. Even with the naked eye you can pick out the dust lanes. Binoculars reveal the Orion Nebula (M42) as a soft cloud around the middle star in Orion’s sword. The Pleiades, the Andromeda Galaxy (M31) and the Double Cluster in Perseus are all visible as fuzzy patches, not points.
Most camps have a fire that dies around midnight. After that the silence and the cold settle in. That 3–5 am window, when the Milky Way has rotated and Scorpius appears in the pre-dawn sky (in spring and summer), is when serious photographers set up. In winter, the Perseus double cluster transits the zenith around 2 am — a striking sight through any small telescope.

October–February for maximum sky quality. November and October balance clarity with comfortable temperatures.
Book around new moon. The four nights before and after new moon are acceptable; anything past half-moon significantly reduces the experience.
Thermal base layer, fleece or down mid-layer, windproof outer. Gloves, hat and warm socks. In Dec–Jan add a sleeping bag liner for the tent.
Binoculars (8×42 or 10×50) are a worthwhile addition. Red-light headtorch to preserve night vision. Tripod and wide-aperture lens if you shoot.
ISO 3200, f/2.8 (or widest available), 20–25 second exposure to limit star trails. Focus manually on a bright star. Shoot RAW.
Camps deep inside the dunes (30+ minutes from the village by camel or 4x4) have the best horizons. Ask your operator how far into the erg your camp sits.
Merzouga is roughly 560 km from Marrakech and 360 km from Fes — distances that make a private vehicle far more practical than public transport.
| From | Drive time | Typical route | Indicative cost (private) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Marrakech | 8–9 hrs | Tizi n'Tichka → Ouarzazate → Todra → Erfoud → Rissani | From ~3,500 MAD ($350) for 2-day tour |
| Fes | 7–8 hrs | Midelt → Errachidia → Rissani → Merzouga | From ~2,800 MAD ($280) private transfer |
| Ouarzazate | 4–5 hrs | Skoura → Tinghir → Todra Gorge → Erfoud | From ~1,800 MAD ($180) private car |
All costs indicative. Prices vary by season, vehicle type and group size.
October through February delivers the finest stargazing at Merzouga. Rainfall in the Moroccan Sahara is negligible year-round (under 30 mm annually), but winter months combine rock-bottom humidity, minimal dust haze, and long, dark nights — sunset can be as early as 6 pm. The downside is cold: lows between −2°C and 4°C are normal from December to February. If you want clear skies without the extreme chill, aim for October–November or March–April.
Erg Chebbi near Merzouga is genuinely remote — the nearest large settlement is Rissani, roughly 40 km west, and Ouarzazate is over 270 km away. On a moonless night the sky glow is negligible and the Milky Way is visible to the naked eye from horizon to horizon. It is not formally certified as an International Dark Sky Park, but in practical terms the darkness rivals certified sites in Namibia or the Atacama.
Yes, clearly — but timing matters. The galactic core (the bright, dense band most people picture) is best placed from late March through October, rising after midnight in spring and visible from dusk in July–August. In winter (November to February) the core sets early, but the winter Milky Way — the outer arm, including Orion and the Perseus region — is still striking. Any trip between October and April on a new-moon night will give you a showstopper sky.
Colder than most visitors expect. At Merzouga (altitude around 960 m) overnight lows in December and January commonly drop to −2°C to 2°C, occasionally lower. The dry air means there is no windchill buffer. Standard desert camps provide blankets, but they are often insufficient for serious cold. Bring a 0°C sleeping bag liner, thermal base layers, a warm hat and gloves. Luxury camps usually include proper duvets — worth it for a winter stargazing trip.
New moon, without question. The Milky Way is invisible whenever the moon is more than a quarter full because the lunar light washes out fainter stars. Check the lunar calendar before you book: aim for the four to five nights either side of new moon. Full moon can actually be beautiful in the dunes — the silver light on the sand is dramatic — but it is a landscape experience, not a stargazing one. Most tour operators can advise on moon phases for your preferred dates.
Most standard camps do not — they offer a clear open sky and occasionally a guide who can point out constellations, but no equipment. A handful of luxury and specialist camps near Merzouga have introduced small amateur telescopes (typically 8–12 inch Dobsonians) and occasionally host dedicated astronomy nights with local guides. If a telescope is important to you, ask specifically before booking. A private guided tour can usually arrange the right camp for your interest.
The sky in July and August is genuinely spectacular — bone-dry air, zero cloud cover, and the Milky Way core blazing overhead from sunset. The problem is the heat. Daytime highs routinely reach 44°C and sand retains warmth well into the night. Many visitors find sleeping outside uncomfortable, and camel rides become impractical in the midday heat. If you can visit in late summer, early September is a reasonable compromise: the core is still well-placed, temperatures are easing, and the tourist crowds are thinner.
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