Anti-Atlas, pink granite

Tafraout Guide

A small Amazigh town in a valley of pink granite boulders in the Anti-Atlas: painted rocks, almond blossom in February, and the villages of the Ameln Valley.

From Tiznit: About 100 km, 2 hours
Almond blossom: February
Painted rocks: Jean Vérame, 1984
Stay: Two to three nights

Tafraout: Morocco's Pink Granite Wonderland

Tafraout is a small Amazigh (Berber) town in a high valley of the Anti-Atlas, ringed by huge boulders of pink granite that glow at sunrise and sunset. Erosion has balanced some on narrow pedestals, stacked others into towers and worn more into shapes that suggest animals and faces. A Belgian artist painted a field of them blue.

This is the home of the Ammeln, one of the Amazigh groups of the Anti-Atlas. Many Ammeln families went north to run grocery shops in Morocco's cities, and money sent home shows in the well-kept houses of the valley. Village life still follows the almond harvest, the olive press and the herds.

This guide covers the painted rocks and Napoleon's Hat, the Ameln Valley, almond blossom season, the Ait Mansour gorge, Anti-Atlas trekking, argan, the weekly souk and the town's babouches.

Top Attractions

Agard Oudad, the painted rocks and Napoleon's Hat make one outing; the Ameln Valley and the gorge need a day each.

The painted rocks: Free. 1 to 2 hoursIn 1984 the Belgian artist Jean Vérame painted the granite boulders near Agard Oudad blue, red, violet and black. Four decades of sun, wind and rain have faded the colours, but boulders the size of houses still carry their blue and crimson across a bare granite plain ringed by Anti-Atlas peaks. It is a few kilometres south of town: walk, or take a taxi. Go in the morning or late afternoon, when the colours show best, and bring water, as there is no shade.
The Ameln Valley: Free. Half to a full dayThe valley runs below the Jebel el-Kest massif (2,359 m), with some two dozen Amazigh villages stepped up its slopes. Each has its own mosque and terraces of almond, olive and other trees watered by irrigation channels (seguias), and some have fortified granaries above them. Oumesnat, signposted for its Maison Traditionnelle, is the easiest to visit; ask locally about seeing inside a traditional house, and leave a tip. The valley is at its best in almond blossom season, and in morning light.
Napoleon's Hat: Free. 30 minutes to 1 hourA granite formation by Agard Oudad whose silhouette looks like Napoleon's bicorne hat, left standing as softer rock eroded around it. It is in the same area as the painted rocks, so see both on one outing. Late afternoon turns the granite amber. The rock round the base is smooth and can be slippery.
Almond blossom: Late January to mid-MarchThe almond trees of the Ameln Valley and the surrounding terraces flower pink and white, usually peaking in February, against the pink granite. These are working orchards: the almonds go into amlou (ground almonds, argan oil and honey), pastries and cosmetics. Some years a festival is held. Timing changes with the rain and temperatures, and rooms fill quickly, so book ahead.
Agard Oudad: Free. 1 to 2 hoursA village of pink stone houses built among the boulders south of Tafraout, and the way in to the painted rocks and Napoleon's Hat. A path through the village leads on to the painted rocks. It is a lived-in village, not a museum: walk quietly and ask before photographing anyone.
The Ait Mansour gorge: About 30 km south. Half a dayA deep gorge in red and pink rock with a ribbon of palms along its floor. The road drops from the plateau into a narrowing valley between high cliffs, past date palms, small irrigated gardens and hamlets, and narrows in places. A sturdy vehicle helps, especially after rain. Mid-morning, when the sun reaches the floor, is the best time, and the palms are a good place for a picnic.

Hiking & Outdoor

Anti-Atlas trekking: October to April. With a local guidePaths cross granite boulder fields, palm gorges, villages and dry passes with views towards the Saharan fringe. The terrain is drier and rockier than the High Atlas and lower, topping out at 2,359 m on Jebel el-Kest. Options include walks through the Ameln Valley, the Jebel el-Kest massif and routes south towards the Ait Mansour gorge, staying in simple village gîtes. The trails are quieter than in the High Atlas. Ask your accommodation to find a local guide, who can also arrange village stays. Summer is too hot; carry plenty of water and sun protection, and expect cold nights at altitude.
Argan walks and cooperatives: Free to walkThe argan tree (Argania spinosa) is native to southwest Morocco, and the argan woodland of the southwest is a UNESCO biosphere reserve. Gnarled, thorny argan trees dot the hillsides around Tafraout. Women's cooperatives crack the nuts and press the oil, for cooking and for cosmetics, and visiting one shows how slow the work is. Buying there puts the money with the women who make it. Don't pay to photograph goats put up in the trees for tourists.

Argan nuts heaped in woven baskets at a women's argan cooperative — Argan nuts waiting to be cracked at the Marjana women's cooperative near Essaouira, not in Tafraout. Photograph: Werner100359, CC BY-SA 4.0

Food & Drink

Amlou: The local spreadGround roasted almonds, argan oil and honey, eaten at breakfast with bread and mint tea. Around Tafraout both the almonds and the oil are local, and every family has its own proportions. A jar makes a good souvenir; buy from cooperatives or village producers rather than tourist shops.
Amazigh mountain cooking: Tagines, couscous, breadSimple, filling food from local produce: goat or lamb tagines with almonds and prunes, couscous on Fridays, bread from communal ovens, and tafarnout, a bread baked on hot stones. Almond pastries appear at harvest. The small restaurants round the central square, where locals eat, are the place to start.
Cafes: On the central squareTerrace cafes on the square look out at the granite peaks. Order mint tea or nous-nous (half coffee, half milk). Cafes here are mostly men's spaces by day, but visitors of any gender are welcome. The evening walk through the centre, when families come out, is a good end to the day.

Shopping & Crafts

The weekly souk: Usually Wednesday. Check locallyThe market day brings families in from the mountain villages with almonds, argan nuts, olives, fruit and vegetables, honey, herbs and spices, plus livestock, household goods, clothes and tools. It is a local market with few stalls aimed at visitors. Go in the morning, bring small notes, and expect it to wind down by early afternoon.
Babouches: Buy from the makerTafraout is known for its leather babouches (slippers), cut, stitched and decorated by hand in small workshops in town, from classic yellow to red, green and blue. Some workshops let you watch the work. Check the softness of the leather and the stitching before you buy.

Practical Information

Getting there: Via Tiznit, about 2 hoursTafraout is about 100 km from Tiznit, over the Col du Kerdous, and 3 to 4 hours by road from Agadir. Buses run from Agadir and Tiznit, and shared grand taxis from Tiznit. The nearest airport is Agadir Al Massira. There is no train. The road up from Tiznit through the Anti-Atlas is a fine drive.
Getting around: On foot in town; a car beyondThe town is small enough to walk across in a quarter of an hour. The painted rocks, Napoleon's Hat and Agard Oudad are a walk or a short taxi ride away. For the Ameln Valley, the Ait Mansour gorge and the outlying villages you need a car, or a car with driver. Some hotels rent bicycles, which suit the Ameln Valley.
When to go: February to April; October to NovemberFebruary to April brings the almond blossom, mild weather and green terraces. October and November are good for trekking, with warm days and cool nights. Summer is hot. Winter is sunny and quiet, but nights are cold.
Language and customs: Tashelhit and FrenchTashelhit, the Amazigh language of the Souss, and French are spoken; English is limited. This is a conservative, traditional area, so dress modestly. Bring warm clothes for the evenings and some cash, and expect patchy mobile signal outside town.

Suggested 3-Day Itinerary

Three days in and around Tafraout.

Day 1: Painted Rocks, Napoleon's Hat & Agard Oudad
Breakfast of amlou and msemen at your guesthouse, then walk or take a taxi south to Agard Oudad. Through the village to the painted rocks for an hour among Vérame's boulders, and on to Napoleon's Hat. Lunch back in Tafraout, a look at the babouche workshops and mint tea on a terrace. Watch the boulders change colour at sunset, then dinner in town.
Day 2: Ameln Valley & village walks
An early start for the Ameln Valley. Oumesnat for its traditional houses and the Maison Traditionnelle, then a walk along the valley through almond orchards and terraces, in full flower in February. A stop at an argan cooperative, then a late lunch in Tafraout; if it is market day, the souk. Sunset from the edge of town, and a dinner of goat tagine with almonds, tafarnout and amlou.
Day 3, option A: the Ait Mansour gorge
Hire a car, or a car with driver, for the gorge about 30 km south: the canyon walls, the palm groves and the hamlets, with a picnic under the palms. Allow half a day or more.
Day 3, option B: Tiznit
A shared grand taxi to Tiznit, about 2 hours: the silver souk and its workshops, the Great Mosque's minaret and the ramparts. Back in Tafraout by evening.

Questions

Frequently Asked Questions

What is Tafraout known for?

Its setting among pink granite boulders in the Anti-Atlas. The sights are the painted rocks (Jean Vérame, 1984), the Ameln Valley and its Amazigh villages, the Napoleon's Hat rock, the almond blossom in February, traditional village architecture, the Ait Mansour gorge, argan trees and handmade leather babouches.

When is almond blossom season in Tafraout?

Usually from late January to mid-March, with the peak in February. The timing changes each year with winter rain and temperatures. The almond trees of the Ameln Valley flower pink and white.

How do you get to Tafraout?

By road through Tiznit, about 100 km and 2 hours away over the Col du Kerdous. From Agadir allow 3 to 4 hours. Buses run from Agadir and Tiznit, and shared grand taxis run from Tiznit. The nearest airport is Agadir Al Massira. There is no train.

What are the painted rocks of Tafraout?

A land art work made in 1984 by the Belgian artist Jean Vérame, who painted huge granite boulders blue, red, violet and black near the village of Agard Oudad, south of Tafraout. The colours have faded over four decades, but the site is still striking. It is free to visit.

What is the best time to visit Tafraout?

February to April, for the almond blossom, mild temperatures and green terraces. October and November are also good for trekking. Summer is hot. Winter is sunny and quiet but cold at night.

Is Tafraout worth visiting?

Yes, if you want a quieter Morocco. The pink granite landscape, the Amazigh villages, the painted rocks and the Ameln Valley are unlike the imperial cities, and the almond blossom season is the best time. Allow two to three nights.