Things to Do in Tangier

The medina’s whitewashed alleys climb steeply from the port to the Kasbah. Its cosmopolitan character dates from the International Zone years (1923–1956), when the city drew writers, artists, spies and bohemians from around the world. Look for painted doorways and small squares where cafe tables spill onto the cobbles.

On the ground: Enter through Bab el-Fahs at the Grand Socco and climb toward the Kasbah. The medina is compact; Rue des Almohades and Rue de la Kasbah are the main streets. Side alleys open onto views over the rooftops to the sea.

This 1821 legation building in the medina was the first American public property outside the United States. It commemorates Morocco as the first country to recognise American independence, in 1777. The museum holds paintings, maps and letters on the long Morocco–US relationship, including work by the Scottish artist James McBey and a gallery on Paul Bowles.

On the ground: The building, a Moroccan palace with a courtyard and fountains, is as interesting as the collection. Weekday mornings are the quietest time.

The Grand Socco is where the medina meets the new town. The round square, officially Place du 9 Avril 1947 after a speech by Sultan Mohammed V, is ringed by cafes, the whitewashed Cinema Rif and the entrance to the Mendoubia Gardens. Berber women in striped skirts sell produce, and men talk over mint tea.

On the ground: Take a cafe table on the edge of the square to watch it go by. The Mendoubia Gardens next door are quieter. In the evening the square fills with locals out for a stroll.

This small square deep in the medina was a centre of International Zone nightlife and intrigue. William Burroughs, Jack Kerouac, Tennessee Williams and Paul Bowles all frequented its cafes. It is calmer now, with faded colonial-era facades and cafe terraces for a glass of mint tea.

On the ground: Burroughs wrote most of Naked Lunch in Tangier, at the Hotel El Muniria rather than on this square. Morning light between the buildings is good for photographs.

Cap Spartel is the northwestern tip of Africa, where the Atlantic meets the Mediterranean. The headland is topped by a lighthouse built in 1864 under Sultan Mohammed IV, with views over both waters. Below, cliffs drop into heavy surf. On clear days the Spanish coast is visible.

On the ground: The Caves of Hercules are 3 km away, so see both in one trip by taxi from the city centre; agree the fare first. Late afternoon brings golden light on the cliffs and the sunset. Bring a jacket: the wind at the cape is fierce.

In Greek myth, Hercules rested in these sea caves west of Tangier after splitting Africa from Europe to open the Strait of Gibraltar. The opening onto the Atlantic has the outline of a map of Africa, best seen from inside looking out. Millstone quarrying cut the interior into honeycomb chambers, and the waves break just below.

On the ground: Arrive early, before the tour groups. The Africa-shaped opening photographs best in the morning. The rocks inside are slippery. Sellers outside offer fossils and minerals; bargain.

A forested park on the hillside above the sea, named after Ion Perdicaris, whose kidnapping by Raisuli in 1904 caused an international incident. It has eucalyptus and pine woods, walking trails and cliff-edge viewpoints, and joins the coast road toward Cap Spartel.

On the ground: Good for a morning walk or a picnic; the cliff trails look over the Strait. Combine it with Cap Spartel and the Caves of Hercules for a full day outside the city. Quiet on weekdays, busy with local families at weekends.

The sandy beach curves along Tangier Bay from the port toward Malabata, with the city rising behind it. The promenade has been renovated with wide walkways, palm trees and beach clubs. The water is calm in summer, cafes and restaurants line the corniche, and Spain is in view across the Strait.

On the ground: The western end near the port is the busiest; head toward Malabata for more space. Beach clubs rent sunbeds and umbrellas. The restaurants along the eastern corniche serve seafood over the bay.

The new marina, built as part of the city’s redevelopment, has yacht berths, waterfront restaurants, cafes, shops and a pedestrian promenade. The old medina rises directly above it.

On the ground: Walk the promenade in the evening, or come for a drink at sunset. Restaurants here cost more than in the medina.

Fast ferries cross the Strait of Gibraltar from Tangier Ville port to Tarifa in Spain, with the Rif receding behind you and the Spanish coast ahead. A day trip to Tarifa is possible, or you can continue to other Spanish cities.

On the ground: Baleària and Africa Morocco Link run the Tarifa route. Book ahead in summer, when ferries fill up, and bring your passport. Tangier Ville port is within walking distance of the medina. With a car, use Tanger Med port, 45 km east.

Cafe Hafa has served mint tea on the cliffs above the Strait of Gibraltar since 1921. Paul Bowles, Tennessee Williams and William Burroughs all sat on its terraces, which step down the hillside, each looking out to sea and the Spanish coast.

On the ground: Arrive well before sunset for a seat on a lower terrace, where the view is clearest. The upper terrace by the entrance gets crowded; weekday mornings are the most peaceful.

Tangier’s street food reflects its place between two continents: fried sardines, msemen flatbread with honey or meat, bowls of harira, bocadillos (Spanish-style sandwiches) and battered, fried seafood. Fresh orange juice sellers stand on most corners.

On the ground: Start at the Grand Socco, where women sell seasonal produce, and enter the medina by Rue es-Siaghine for spice stalls and bakeries. The fish market near the port fries the freshest catch. Eat where turnover is high. A guided food tour with a local finds places you would miss.

Tangier’s cosmopolitan past shows after dark. Bars, lounges and clubs range from El Morocco Club in the Kasbah to rooftop bars over the Strait, beachfront lounges and late clubs along the waterfront, with a mixed Moroccan, European and international crowd.

On the ground: Start with sunset at Cafe Hafa or a marina terrace. In summer the beach clubs and bars on the corniche stay open late. Dress smartly for upscale venues.