Discovering...
Discovering...

The southern medina corridor that runs from Jemaa el-Fna to the Bahia Palace — and why it is the most practical place to base yourself in Marrakech.
Yasmine El Amrani· Marrakech & Atlas Editor
Marrakech-born travel writer who has spent the last decade walking the medina’s souks and the High Atlas trails above Imlil. She covers the Red City, Berber villages and day trips into the mountains. Marrakech · 12+ years covering Morocco
Published 3 July 2025 Last updated 1 May 2026
Riad Zitoun is the most riad-dense corridor in the Marrakech medina — two streets, el-Kedim and el-Jadid, that together form a spine running from the chaos of Jemaa el-Fna down to the gates of the Bahia Palace and the edge of the old Mellah. If you are trying to work out where to stay in Marrakech, this neighbourhood answers most of the practical questions at once: you are 10 minutes on foot from the main square in one direction and 3 minutes from the Bahia Palace in the other.
The alleys here are quieter than those immediately behind the square. You get the medina experience — the call to prayer echoing off painted plaster, the smell of cumin from a street food cart, the sudden turns into shaded derbs — without the nightly crush of tourists around Jemaa el-Fna. Most visitors only discover this neighbourhood after their trip; this guide aims to change that.
Below: a breakdown of the two streets and what they feel like, the key sights within walking distance, where to eat, how to navigate the alleys on arrival, and whether a guided introduction to the area makes sense for first-timers.
The two Riad Zitoun streets are not the same road — understanding the difference saves confusion when you book.
| Feature | El-Kedim (the old) | El-Jadid (the new) |
|---|---|---|
| Direction | Runs north–south, Jemaa el-Fna to the Bahia turn-off | Branches south-east from el-Kedim to the Bahia Palace |
| Foot traffic | Moderate — some motorcycles in the evenings | Quieter; mostly foot traffic and locals |
| Vibe | More commercial, small artisan stalls | Residential, narrower, fewer stalls |
| Distance to Jemaa el-Fna | ~700 m (10 min walk) | ~15 min via el-Kedim |
| Distance to Bahia Palace | ~8 min walk | ~3–4 min walk |
| Best for | Easy access to the square and souks | Peace, quiet, and the Bahia / Mellah sights |
The practical upshot: if you want the Bahia Palace on your doorstep and a calmer evening return to your riad, choose el-Jadid. If you want the quickest walk to the square and the northern souks, el-Kedim has the edge.
Five sights you can visit without getting in a taxi — all genuinely worth your time, none overrated.
~3 min walk from el-Jadid
The 19th-century vizier's palace is the anchor sight of the southern medina. Arrive before 9 am to beat tour groups and see the painted cedar ceilings in calm. Entry is 70 MAD (indicative).
~8 min walk
The shell of Sa'adian Sultan Ahmad al-Mansur's grand palace. Climb the ramparts for a rooftop view over the medina and the storks nesting in the towers. 70 MAD entry (indicative).
~5 min walk
The 16th-century mellah sits immediately east of the Bahia Palace. The covered spice market at its entrance is still active. Look up at the wrought-iron balconies on the Rue du Mellah.
~10 min walk north on el-Kedim
The famous main square is a straight walk north up Riad Zitoun el-Kedim — roughly 700 metres. Most guests do it twice a day without a second thought.
~2 min walk off el-Jadid
A little-visited gem: the personal collection of Dutch anthropologist Bert Flint, spread through a beautiful riad. Berber jewellery, textiles and desert artefacts. 30 MAD entry (indicative).

The lanes off Riad Zitoun el-Jadid open unexpectedly onto the Bahia Palace forecourt.
The neighbourhood is not saturated with tourist restaurants — which is part of its appeal. A few places are worth knowing about.
Moroccan-contemporary rooftop
Modern Moroccan plates with a view over the Bahia neighbourhood rooftops. Book a day ahead. Mains from ~120 MAD (indicative).
Light lunches & juices
A terrace overlooking Place Rahba Lakdima just north of the corridor. Great for a mint lemonade break mid-morning.
Traditional slow-roast lamb
A handful of tables in the alley, whole lamb roasted from dawn. Arrive before noon or it runs out. Cash, no reservations.
Set menus in-house
Most riads serve a three-course set dinner (80–150 MAD indicative). Worth trying at least once — you eat in the courtyard you are staying in.
No taxi can reach the doors of most riads in this area — the medina lanes are too narrow. Here is how arrival works in practice.
1. Taxi drops you at the nearest accessible point
Petits taxis can usually reach the edge of the southern medina — typically the junction near Place des Ferblantiers (Lantern Square) for el-Jadid, or Rue de Bab Agnaou for el-Kedim. Agree the fare before you get in; from Menara airport expect 70–100 MAD (indicative).
2. Your riad meets you or sends directions
Good riads all do this. Confirm your arrival time in advance and your host will either come in person or send someone. Do not wander with heavy bags without a contact number ready.
3. The walk in is 3–8 minutes
Most riads are a short carry from the taxi drop point. The alleys are paved but uneven, and can have single steps. Wheels work fine on the main lanes; deep derbs may require a carry.
4. Check in, then explore on foot
Once your bags are in, you do not need transport again for most of the day's sightseeing. Everything listed above is walkable. Save the taxi for late-evening returns from Jemaa el-Fna if you are laden with shopping.
First visit tip: Book a private half-day guided walk on arrival day. A good local guide walks you door-to-door, points out the fountain where you turn, the nondescript door of the neighbourhood hammam, and the stall where the best mille-feuille in the medina is sold at 8 am. You will remember those details for the rest of the trip — and stop getting lost by day two.
Riad Zitoun is the name of two parallel arteries in the southern medina: Riad Zitoun el-Kedim ("the old riad of the olive") runs from near Jemaa el-Fna southward, and Riad Zitoun el-Jadid ("the new") branches off toward the Bahia Palace. Together they form the spine of the medina's most riad-dense corridor, a neighbourhood packed with converted courtyard houses turned guesthouses, small artisan workshops and local food stalls — with almost no souvenir touts.
Yes — it is arguably the best-positioned neighbourhood for first-time visitors. You are a 10-minute walk from Jemaa el-Fna and the main souks to the north, and 3–5 minutes from the Bahia Palace, El Badi Palace and the Mellah to the south. The streets are quieter than those right off the main square, which means you get medina atmosphere without the worst of the evening crowds. Riads here tend to be mid-range to boutique, so it suits travellers who want character without paying five-star prices.
El-Kedim ("old") is the longer, more northerly of the two streets — it connects directly to Jemaa el-Fna and carries more foot traffic, including some motorcycles. El-Jadid ("new") branches south-east and is narrower, quieter and more residential; it ends near the Bahia Palace. Staying on el-Jadid generally means slightly more peace and quicker access to the southern sights. Staying on el-Kedim is marginally more convenient for the square. Both are walkable to everything.
The corridor puts you within easy walking distance of the Bahia Palace (one of Morocco's finest examples of 19th-century courtyard architecture), the ruined El Badi Palace and its stork-topped ramparts, the Mellah Jewish Quarter with its spice souk and ornate balconies, and the intimate Maison Tiskiwin Berber collection. The Saadian Tombs — the city's most-visited buried royal necropolis — are a further 10 minutes' walk south. Jemaa el-Fna and the souk district are 10 minutes north.
The main entrance to the Bahia Palace is on Avenue Imam El Ghazali, which runs parallel to and just east of Riad Zitoun el-Jadid. From most riads on el-Jadid, the walk takes 2–4 minutes. From el-Kedim it is around 5–8 minutes depending on which alley you cut through. If you are specifically visiting the Bahia, staying on el-Jadid puts you closer and also gives you more of the surrounding local neighbourhood rather than the tourist flow heading to the square.
There are several, at different price points. Nomad (contemporary Moroccan, rooftop terrace) is the most acclaimed in the immediate area — book ahead. Mechoui du Prince serves whole slow-roasted lamb out of a hole-in-the-wall at lunchtime and sells out fast; arrive before noon. Café des Épices on Place Rahba Lakdima just north is reliable for light lunches and fresh juices. Most riads also offer excellent set dinners in their courtyards — worth doing at least once, as eating in a lantern-lit riad courtyard is genuinely special.
The main streets — el-Kedim and el-Jadid — are easy to follow, but the side alleys (derbs) that lead to many riads are genuinely maze-like. Most riad receptions will meet you at a landmark (usually the nearest fountain or tiled doorway) on your first arrival. Download an offline map on Maps.me or Google Maps before you go; both map the medina derbs reasonably well. Allow 10–15 extra minutes on your first walk in with luggage, and avoid peak hours (6–8 pm) when motorcycles make the main arteries chaotic.
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