The souk entrance you want is the arch at the northern end of Jemaa el-Fna, directly opposite the Café de France. Walk through it and you are on Souk Semmarine. Stay on Semmarine for your first orientation pass, then start turning down the smaller lanes to the left and right. Each one will look chaotic at first and then start to reveal its logic.
Three practical rules: First, if a shopkeeper invites you in for tea, you can accept and leave without buying — this is social custom, not a binding contract, though it does involve some time and social effort. Second, prices quoted to tourists typically start at two to three times the going rate; the first counter-offer should be around half the ask. Third, do not buy anything from someone who “happens to be walking your way” or offers to show you a shortcut — this is a classic lead-in to an unsolicited guide arrangement that will cost you later.
Timing matters. The souks are most atmospheric and busy mid-morning to early afternoon (10 am – 2 pm). Later in the afternoon light fades in the covered lanes and some traders pack up. Friday lunchtime (around 12.30–2 pm) is the quietest window, when many traders attend prayers. If you want crowds cleared, Friday morning is your best slot. If you want atmosphere and the full cast of local traders as well as tourists, Saturday morning is the peak.
All prices indicative from 2025–2026 market visits. Expect significant variation by quality tier and negotiation outcome.